A Jerusalem Anthology takes us on a journey through a city, not just of illusion and powerful accumulated religious emotion, but of colors, lights, smells, and sounds, an inhabited city as it was directly experienced and lived in through the ages. Memoirs of visitors such as as sixth-century AD pilgrim Saint Silvia of Bordeaux, medieval Jerusalemite al-Muqaddasi, Grand Tour voyagers Gustave Flaubert and Alexander Kinglake, the humorous Mark Twain, or the cynical T.E. Lawrence provide vivid and sometimes disturbing vignettes of the Holy City at very different times in its tumultuous history.
A Jerusalem Anthology takes us on a journey through a city, not just of illusion and powerful accumulated religious emotion, but of colors, lights, smells, and sounds, an inhabited city as it was directly experienced and lived in through the ages. Memoirs of visitors such as as sixth-century AD pilgrim Saint Silvia of Bordeaux, medieval Jerusalemite al-Muqaddasi, Grand Tour voyagers Gustave Flaubert and Alexander Kinglake, the humorous Mark Twain, or the cynical T.E. Lawrence provide vivid and sometimes disturbing vignettes of the Holy City at very different times in its tumultuous history.
Table of Contents Introduction 4 Acknowledgements 5 Illustrations 5 Geography of History and Belief 6 Reality Check Kathleen Kenyon (1967) 6 Convenient Proximity Alexander Kinglake (1844) 6 Antiquity/Early Middle Ages 7 A Very Early Pilgrim The Bordeaux Pilgrim (332-333 AD) 7 Speaking in Tongues St Silvia of Aquitaine (ca 385 AD) 7 Seljuk and Fatimid Period 9 Incomparable Jerusalem Al-Muqaddasi (972 AD) 9 An Iranian Pilgrim in Fatimid Times Nasir-i-Khusrau (1017 AD) 10 Crusader Times 12 Deeds of the Franks Anonymous chronicle, (1100-1101 AD) 12 A Russian Abbot in Crusader Jerusalem Abbot Daniel (Danilo) (ca 1107 AD) 13 Jerusalem in 1187 Rabbi Benjamin of Tudela 14 Mamluke and Ottoman Era Travellers 17 First Impressions of Jerusalem Harriet Martineau (1848) 17 First Glimpse Pierre Loti (1895) 19 Disappointed Expectations Gustave Flaubert (1849-50) 19 A Flat and Unimposing View William Bartlett (1850) 20 Dreary City Edouard Schuré 20 The Grand Tour to the Holy Land 22 Returning from an Excursion Buck Whaley (1789) 22 A Visit to the Governor Alphonse de Lamartine (1832-33) 22 A Grand Tour Day in Jerusalem Lady Catherine Tobin (1860) 23 Jumping Cats and Chicken Coops Mark Twain (1869) 24 The Grand Tour ends in Tourism Estelle Blyth (1914) 25 Disappointed Tourists Sir Ronald Storrs (1922) 26 Jewish Jerusalem 27 The Second Temple Flavius Josephus (93-95 AD) 27 The Wailing Wall Amy Fullerton (1872) 28 Christian Monuments 29 An Early Description Arculfus (ca 670 AD) 29 The Holy Sepulchre Buck Whaley (1789) 30 Babel in the Cathedral Pierre Loti (1895) 31 The Church of the Nativity Amy Fullerton (1872) 31 The Armenian Convent Gustave Flaubert (1849-50) 32 Muslim Holy Places 33 After the Reconquest Ibn Battuta (ca 1325 AD) 33 The Al-Aqsa Mosque Evliya Çelebi (1648) 33 The Al-Aqsa Mosque Al-Muqaddasi (972 AD) 34 The Dome of the Rock Evliya Çelebi (1648) 35 The Holy Rock Al-Muqaddasi (972 AD) 35 Personal Vignettes 37 A Fright in the Cave Isabel Burton (1875) 37 An Imperial Journey Estelle Blyth (1898) 38 Russian Pilgrims Gertrude Bell (1907) 39 A Franco-French Experience François-René de Chateaubriand (1806-07) 39 Spiritual Exuberance, Holy Fire and Cynicism 41 Disorders in the Cathedral Henry Maundrell 41 The Holy Fire Evliya Çelebi (1648) 42 Easter Fervour and Renewal Grigorii Rasputin (1911) 42 Street Life, Seasons and Celebration 44 A Cleansing Rain Arculfus, ca 670 AD 44 The Pigrimage Season Alexander Kinglake (1844) 44 Seasonal Feasts Al-Muqaddasi (972 AD) 45 Drought in the Holy City James Finn (1855) 45 Spring in Jerusalem Mary Rogers (1860) 46 Politics Consuls and Dignitaries 48 The Geopolitical Dimension Karl Marx (1854) 48 A Son is Born to Napoleon III James Finn (1856) 49 A Bishop's Household Estelle Blyth (1914) 50 Early Twentieth-Century 51 A Stormy Entrance into Jerusalem Gertrude Bell (1907) 51 Wartime Hardship Sir Ronald Storrs (1917) 51 Despised by All T E Lawrence (1918) 52 Bibliography 53 The Writers 56
Table of Contents Introduction 4 Acknowledgements 5 Illustrations 5 Geography of History and Belief 6 Reality Check Kathleen Kenyon (1967) 6 Convenient Proximity Alexander Kinglake (1844) 6 Antiquity/Early Middle Ages 7 A Very Early Pilgrim The Bordeaux Pilgrim (332-333 AD) 7 Speaking in Tongues St Silvia of Aquitaine (ca 385 AD) 7 Seljuk and Fatimid Period 9 Incomparable Jerusalem Al-Muqaddasi (972 AD) 9 An Iranian Pilgrim in Fatimid Times Nasir-i-Khusrau (1017 AD) 10 Crusader Times 12 Deeds of the Franks Anonymous chronicle, (1100-1101 AD) 12 A Russian Abbot in Crusader Jerusalem Abbot Daniel (Danilo) (ca 1107 AD) 13 Jerusalem in 1187 Rabbi Benjamin of Tudela 14 Mamluke and Ottoman Era Travellers 17 First Impressions of Jerusalem Harriet Martineau (1848) 17 First Glimpse Pierre Loti (1895) 19 Disappointed Expectations Gustave Flaubert (1849-50) 19 A Flat and Unimposing View William Bartlett (1850) 20 Dreary City Edouard Schuré 20 The Grand Tour to the Holy Land 22 Returning from an Excursion Buck Whaley (1789) 22 A Visit to the Governor Alphonse de Lamartine (1832-33) 22 A Grand Tour Day in Jerusalem Lady Catherine Tobin (1860) 23 Jumping Cats and Chicken Coops Mark Twain (1869) 24 The Grand Tour ends in Tourism Estelle Blyth (1914) 25 Disappointed Tourists Sir Ronald Storrs (1922) 26 Jewish Jerusalem 27 The Second Temple Flavius Josephus (93-95 AD) 27 The Wailing Wall Amy Fullerton (1872) 28 Christian Monuments 29 An Early Description Arculfus (ca 670 AD) 29 The Holy Sepulchre Buck Whaley (1789) 30 Babel in the Cathedral Pierre Loti (1895) 31 The Church of the Nativity Amy Fullerton (1872) 31 The Armenian Convent Gustave Flaubert (1849-50) 32 Muslim Holy Places 33 After the Reconquest Ibn Battuta (ca 1325 AD) 33 The Al-Aqsa Mosque Evliya Çelebi (1648) 33 The Al-Aqsa Mosque Al-Muqaddasi (972 AD) 34 The Dome of the Rock Evliya Çelebi (1648) 35 The Holy Rock Al-Muqaddasi (972 AD) 35 Personal Vignettes 37 A Fright in the Cave Isabel Burton (1875) 37 An Imperial Journey Estelle Blyth (1898) 38 Russian Pilgrims Gertrude Bell (1907) 39 A Franco-French Experience François-René de Chateaubriand (1806-07) 39 Spiritual Exuberance, Holy Fire and Cynicism 41 Disorders in the Cathedral Henry Maundrell 41 The Holy Fire Evliya Çelebi (1648) 42 Easter Fervour and Renewal Grigorii Rasputin (1911) 42 Street Life, Seasons and Celebration 44 A Cleansing Rain Arculfus, ca 670 AD 44 The Pigrimage Season Alexander Kinglake (1844) 44 Seasonal Feasts Al-Muqaddasi (972 AD) 45 Drought in the Holy City James Finn (1855) 45 Spring in Jerusalem Mary Rogers (1860) 46 Politics Consuls and Dignitaries 48 The Geopolitical Dimension Karl Marx (1854) 48 A Son is Born to Napoleon III James Finn (1856) 49 A Bishop's Household Estelle Blyth (1914) 50 Early Twentieth-Century 51 A Stormy Entrance into Jerusalem Gertrude Bell (1907) 51 Wartime Hardship Sir Ronald Storrs (1917) 51 Despised by All T E Lawrence (1918) 52 Bibliography 53 The Writers 56
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