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This book is an introductory treatment to coastal and estuarine processes for earth scientists or engineers. Suitable for a first course on the subject, it covers water waves, surf zone hydrodynamics, tides in oceans and estuaries, storm surges, estuarine mixing, basic sediment transport, coastal morphodynamics and coastal groundwater dynamics. The book contains a substantial amount of new material. For example, the explicit, analytical treatment of transient, forced long waves strongly enhances the discussion on tsunami, storm surges and surf beat. The treatment of turbulent mixing includes…mehr

Produktbeschreibung
This book is an introductory treatment to coastal and estuarine processes for earth scientists or engineers. Suitable for a first course on the subject, it covers water waves, surf zone hydrodynamics, tides in oceans and estuaries, storm surges, estuarine mixing, basic sediment transport, coastal morphodynamics and coastal groundwater dynamics. The book contains a substantial amount of new material. For example, the explicit, analytical treatment of transient, forced long waves strongly enhances the discussion on tsunami, storm surges and surf beat. The treatment of turbulent mixing includes finite mixing length effects, which provide an explanation for differential diffusion of different sediment sizes in suspension. The recently discovered effects of acceleration skewness and boundary layer streaming are also included in the basic sediment transport models. In addition, the treatment of beach groundwater dynamics: The mechanisms by which waves as well as tides drive groundwater motion, builds the link between the previously unconnected fields of coastal hydraulics and regional groundwater modeling. To serve as an effective reference book for professionals, the book is fully indexed and comprehensively cross referenced.
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Autorenporträt
Peter Nielsen was born in the Bay Area in the late 1950s to a young executive on the rise and a beautiful mother who hailed from a small rural town in central Utah. His family moved to another small town in Southern California named Piru when he was very young. They lived there for 3 years until the family packed up and moved to Washington DC. It was the late 1960s when they moved to the east coast and a time of exciting and dangerous developments in the world. A few years later, when Peter was in the sixth grade, the family moved back to Southern California and settled in the San Diego area. After graduating from La Jolla high school, in the late 1970s during a period of great political and cultural instability, Peter traveled to and lived in the country of Guatemala. His view of the world was forever changed as he learned to understand and appreciate the plight of the people there. After 2 years he came home, graduated from college and began a career working for various multinational banking organizations. He had a front row seat when the "Great recession" of the late 2000s and the early 2010s came crashing down on the banking world. He was an important piece of a team of professionals who were employed by the Federal Deposit Insurance Corporation and were tasked with helping to resolve the terrible financial crisis that hit them all. He now lives with his wife, Kathie, in Tustin, California. They have three children and six grandchildren.