Bridging theory and practice, this accessible text considers fashion from both cultural studies and fashion studies perspectives, and addresses the growing interaction between the two fields. Kaiser and Green use a wide range of cross-cultural case studies to explore how race, ethnicity, class, gender and other identities intersect and are produced through embodied fashion. Drawing on intersectionality in feminist theory and cultural studies, Fashion and Cultural Studies is essential reading for students and scholars. This revised edition includes updated case studies and two new chapters. The…mehr
Bridging theory and practice, this accessible text considers fashion from both cultural studies and fashion studies perspectives, and addresses the growing interaction between the two fields. Kaiser and Green use a wide range of cross-cultural case studies to explore how race, ethnicity, class, gender and other identities intersect and are produced through embodied fashion. Drawing on intersectionality in feminist theory and cultural studies, Fashion and Cultural Studies is essential reading for students and scholars. This revised edition includes updated case studies and two new chapters. The first new chapter explores religion, spirituality, and faith in relation to style, fashion, and dress. The second offers a critique of "beauty" and considers dressed embodiment inclusive of diverse sizes, shapes and dis/abilities. Throughout the text, Kaiser and Green use a range of examples to interrogate the complex entanglements of production, regulation, distribution, consumption, and subject formation within and through fashion.
Susan B. Kaiser is Professor of Textiles and Clothing, and Gender, Sexuality and Women's Studies, and is a member of the Cultural Studies Graduate Groups at the University of California, Davis. She is the author of The Social Psychology of Clothing: Symbolic Appearances in Context (2nd edition).
Inhaltsangabe
List of Illustrations Acknowledgments 1. Fashion Studies and Cultural Studies Articulation Style-fashion-dress The fields of fashion studies and cultural studies Conceptualizing culture and fashion Circuit of style-fashion-dress model Production Consumption Distribution Subject formation Regulation 2. Intersectional, Transnational Fashion Subjects Assumption 1: Structure-agency dynamics include processes of persuasion, consent, and resistance. Assumption 2: Subject formation through style-fashion-dress is a process of navigating intersectionalities. Assumption 3: Structures of feeling - expressed through subject formation and the fashion process alike - articulate between everyday life and culture through the circuit of style-fashion-dress Ambiguity Cultural Ambivalence Cultural Anxiety Assumption 4: The field of critical fashion studies needs to move from identity nots to identity (k)nots Assumption 5: Fashion is transnational - not merely western or "Euromodern" Assumption 6: The process of negotiating ambiguity is not a level playing field, and it is a material process - especially in a transnational context 3. Fashioning the National Subject Nation ? essence Nation as different than: Representing the other Folk costume, national dress and fashion Working the hyphen: Nation-state and style-fashion-dress French Revolution Chinese Cultural Revolution (and beyond) From European expansion to globalization Decolonizing fashion: Beyond the metaphor Globalization Intersectionalities and entanglements 4. Racial Rearticulations and Ethnicities Race and ethnicity: Sliding signifiers Racial and ethnic rearticulations Color Hair Ethnic re-articulations: Belongings-in-Difference Sliding into appropriation, sliding into religion 5. Religion, Fashion, and Spirituality Subject formation Spirituality, subjectivity, and materiality Modesty Piety, orthodoxy, religiosity Regulation State alignment with religion Freedom from religion Freedom of religion (religious freedom) Production, distribution, and consumption The Jewish diaspora and the textile, clothing, and retail industries The globalization of Muslim fashion 6. Class Matters, Fashion Matters Conceptualizing class Caste systems Sumptuary laws, materials, and the "natural" order Class, intersectionalities, and industrial capitalism From textile to apparel production: At home, in the factory, and in protest Class and fast fashion Metaphors of class structure and change: The flows of fashion Status claims and status demurrals 7. Gendering Fashion, Fashioning Gender: Beyond Binaries Soft assemblages Marking, unmarking, and remarking gender Sex, gender, and style-fashion-dress: Feminist deconstructions Theorizing the body and style-fashion-dress Transgender studies through bodies and style-fashion-dress Menswear out of the academic closet Multiple masculinities Zoot suit La SAPE in Congo US National Survey of Male Intersectionalities 8. Sexual Subjectivities and Style-Fashion-Dress Sexual subjectivities Binary "beginnings" and reversals Homophobic discourses On the protracted coming out of heterosexuality 1960s and 1970s: Social movements and sexual fashions 1980s and beyond: Queering fashion Gazing subjects and positionalities Sexuality through intersectionalities 9. Dressed Embodiment From phenomenology to dressed embodiment Abstracting the body and representing embodiment Anthropometrics and sizing Stigmatizing and celebrating fat bodies Sizeism and the fashion industry Flaunting fat Dis/abled bodies Athletics and bodily exceptionalism Addressing ableism Disabling environments and style-fashion-dress Fashioning disability Concealment Diversion and reframing Modifying and making Compensation Social uniqueness Social inclusion Embodied subjectivities 10. Bodies in Motion Through Time and Space Time and space (and place) Age/generation and place Fashion's way with time in space: Spatiotemporalities Industrial time Anti/nonlinear time and space Nostalgia Space-Time compression and "speed space" Uchronic temporality and utopian spaces Closing/opening thoughts Bibliography Index
List of Illustrations Acknowledgments 1. Fashion Studies and Cultural Studies Articulation Style-fashion-dress The fields of fashion studies and cultural studies Conceptualizing culture and fashion Circuit of style-fashion-dress model Production Consumption Distribution Subject formation Regulation 2. Intersectional, Transnational Fashion Subjects Assumption 1: Structure-agency dynamics include processes of persuasion, consent, and resistance. Assumption 2: Subject formation through style-fashion-dress is a process of navigating intersectionalities. Assumption 3: Structures of feeling - expressed through subject formation and the fashion process alike - articulate between everyday life and culture through the circuit of style-fashion-dress Ambiguity Cultural Ambivalence Cultural Anxiety Assumption 4: The field of critical fashion studies needs to move from identity nots to identity (k)nots Assumption 5: Fashion is transnational - not merely western or "Euromodern" Assumption 6: The process of negotiating ambiguity is not a level playing field, and it is a material process - especially in a transnational context 3. Fashioning the National Subject Nation ? essence Nation as different than: Representing the other Folk costume, national dress and fashion Working the hyphen: Nation-state and style-fashion-dress French Revolution Chinese Cultural Revolution (and beyond) From European expansion to globalization Decolonizing fashion: Beyond the metaphor Globalization Intersectionalities and entanglements 4. Racial Rearticulations and Ethnicities Race and ethnicity: Sliding signifiers Racial and ethnic rearticulations Color Hair Ethnic re-articulations: Belongings-in-Difference Sliding into appropriation, sliding into religion 5. Religion, Fashion, and Spirituality Subject formation Spirituality, subjectivity, and materiality Modesty Piety, orthodoxy, religiosity Regulation State alignment with religion Freedom from religion Freedom of religion (religious freedom) Production, distribution, and consumption The Jewish diaspora and the textile, clothing, and retail industries The globalization of Muslim fashion 6. Class Matters, Fashion Matters Conceptualizing class Caste systems Sumptuary laws, materials, and the "natural" order Class, intersectionalities, and industrial capitalism From textile to apparel production: At home, in the factory, and in protest Class and fast fashion Metaphors of class structure and change: The flows of fashion Status claims and status demurrals 7. Gendering Fashion, Fashioning Gender: Beyond Binaries Soft assemblages Marking, unmarking, and remarking gender Sex, gender, and style-fashion-dress: Feminist deconstructions Theorizing the body and style-fashion-dress Transgender studies through bodies and style-fashion-dress Menswear out of the academic closet Multiple masculinities Zoot suit La SAPE in Congo US National Survey of Male Intersectionalities 8. Sexual Subjectivities and Style-Fashion-Dress Sexual subjectivities Binary "beginnings" and reversals Homophobic discourses On the protracted coming out of heterosexuality 1960s and 1970s: Social movements and sexual fashions 1980s and beyond: Queering fashion Gazing subjects and positionalities Sexuality through intersectionalities 9. Dressed Embodiment From phenomenology to dressed embodiment Abstracting the body and representing embodiment Anthropometrics and sizing Stigmatizing and celebrating fat bodies Sizeism and the fashion industry Flaunting fat Dis/abled bodies Athletics and bodily exceptionalism Addressing ableism Disabling environments and style-fashion-dress Fashioning disability Concealment Diversion and reframing Modifying and making Compensation Social uniqueness Social inclusion Embodied subjectivities 10. Bodies in Motion Through Time and Space Time and space (and place) Age/generation and place Fashion's way with time in space: Spatiotemporalities Industrial time Anti/nonlinear time and space Nostalgia Space-Time compression and "speed space" Uchronic temporality and utopian spaces Closing/opening thoughts Bibliography Index
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