A soulful collection of nearly four decades of surf writing. In Deep transports readers into the heart of the surfing world's culture through the eyes and imagination of a master storyteller. George's personality profiles, perspective essays, and travel accounts achieve a level of frank articulation that, much like the works of Theroux, Krakauer, and Finnegan, reveal as much about the man as it does his subjects. Peak transcendence and quiet reflection, famous beaches and lost islands, competitive triumphs and personal tragedies; In Deep is a compelling montage assembled by both a seasoned…mehr
A soulful collection of nearly four decades of surf writing. In Deep transports readers into the heart of the surfing world's culture through the eyes and imagination of a master storyteller. George's personality profiles, perspective essays, and travel accounts achieve a level of frank articulation that, much like the works of Theroux, Krakauer, and Finnegan, reveal as much about the man as it does his subjects. Peak transcendence and quiet reflection, famous beaches and lost islands, competitive triumphs and personal tragedies; In Deep is a compelling montage assembled by both a seasoned observer and fervent participant in the sublime pursuit of the passion that comes in waves.Hinweis: Dieser Artikel kann nur an eine deutsche Lieferadresse ausgeliefert werden.
For over thirty-five years, Matt George's feature articles and photographs have stood among the most influential works in surfing journalism. Accepting a post as Senior Contributing Editor for SURFER Magazine in 1985, George traveled the world as he covered all aspects of the sport, garnering a sterling list of awards and achievements along the way. George is also known for the writing and co-production of the Columbia Tri-Star Feature film In Gods Hands, a big wave surfing drama, and the creation of the NBC drama series, Wind on Water. He remains a senior contributor for all the major surf magazines and websites and is an in-demand public speaker. He resides in Bali, Indonesia, and is currently the Editor-in-Chief of South East Asia's Surftime Magazine. He still surfs every day.
Inhaltsangabe
CONTENTS FOREWORD 8 PREFACE 12 RED WATER 20 OLD SMOKE 26 ONCE THERE WAS A WAR 30 THE SEDUCTION OF KELLY SLATER 38 KEALA KENNELLY’S SYMPHONIES FOR THE DEVIL 49 BYRNING HEART 62 FLESH AND BLOOD 82 DREAMTIME 97 WAR PARTY 102 THE HORNIEST SURFER ON THE WORLD QUALIFYING SERIES TOUR 108 BEAU YOUNG WALKS ON WATER 113 FULL METAL RACKET 128 WATERWORLD 138 DON’T MESS WITH TEXAS 145 THE ART AND SOUL OF ROB MACHADO 155 THE GREAT NATIVIDAD SNAKE HUNT 167 THE SAGA OF HARBOR BILL 178 THE BEAUTIFUL ISLAND 184 MARLON GERBER: GOING DEEP 187 THE NORTHING 191 THE PRIVATE WORLD OF TOM CURREN 218 DREAM ON 226 CHEYNE HORAN’S RAINBOW BRIDGE 234 BEASTS OF BURDEN 252 ICE BLUE EYES 260 THE FATHER, THE SON, AND THE HOLY SPIRIT 264 MP AND THE FAT MAN 275 SAVAGE BEAUTY 283 WATER FROM THE MOON 288 THE COMING AGE OF MARK OCCHILUPO 292 IN ANOTHER COUNTRY 303 OSCAR WRIGHT AND THE FEAR OF FALLING 310 CRITICAL MASS 321 BEYOND THE GREAT WALL 327 THE RELENTLESS SOUL OF MADE WINADA ADI PUTRA 337 THE QUESTION OF KELLY SLATER 340 WHERE CHILDREN REIGN 343 STATE OF GRACE 353 EXPAT 366 JUNGLE BOY 370 WALL OF SKULLS 374 THE HELL ZONE 382 LEST WE FORGET 390 ANAK LAUT 398 THE IMPORTANCE OF BEING GARUT 404 THE DELICATE DANCE 409 AMAZING GRACE 414 CANGGU: EAT, PRAY, FUCK 417 JUNGLE LOVE 434 APOCALYPSE HERE 438 MIKE PARSONS AND THE HOUNDS OF HELL 442 GOING TOO FAR 448 PURPOSE BUILT 455 TWO TICKETS TO PARADISE 459 JUNGLE STORY 469 WARM WHISKEY FOR ALL GHOSTS 480 IN GOD’S HANDS 493 THE BALI YOU REMEMBER 498 FAREWELL TO THE KING...FOR NOW 511 THEY ARE WHO YOU ARE 516 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS 520 ABOUT THE AUTHOR 522
CONTENTS FOREWORD 8 PREFACE 12 RED WATER 20 OLD SMOKE 26 ONCE THERE WAS A WAR 30 THE SEDUCTION OF KELLY SLATER 38 KEALA KENNELLY’S SYMPHONIES FOR THE DEVIL 49 BYRNING HEART 62 FLESH AND BLOOD 82 DREAMTIME 97 WAR PARTY 102 THE HORNIEST SURFER ON THE WORLD QUALIFYING SERIES TOUR 108 BEAU YOUNG WALKS ON WATER 113 FULL METAL RACKET 128 WATERWORLD 138 DON’T MESS WITH TEXAS 145 THE ART AND SOUL OF ROB MACHADO 155 THE GREAT NATIVIDAD SNAKE HUNT 167 THE SAGA OF HARBOR BILL 178 THE BEAUTIFUL ISLAND 184 MARLON GERBER: GOING DEEP 187 THE NORTHING 191 THE PRIVATE WORLD OF TOM CURREN 218 DREAM ON 226 CHEYNE HORAN’S RAINBOW BRIDGE 234 BEASTS OF BURDEN 252 ICE BLUE EYES 260 THE FATHER, THE SON, AND THE HOLY SPIRIT 264 MP AND THE FAT MAN 275 SAVAGE BEAUTY 283 WATER FROM THE MOON 288 THE COMING AGE OF MARK OCCHILUPO 292 IN ANOTHER COUNTRY 303 OSCAR WRIGHT AND THE FEAR OF FALLING 310 CRITICAL MASS 321 BEYOND THE GREAT WALL 327 THE RELENTLESS SOUL OF MADE WINADA ADI PUTRA 337 THE QUESTION OF KELLY SLATER 340 WHERE CHILDREN REIGN 343 STATE OF GRACE 353 EXPAT 366 JUNGLE BOY 370 WALL OF SKULLS 374 THE HELL ZONE 382 LEST WE FORGET 390 ANAK LAUT 398 THE IMPORTANCE OF BEING GARUT 404 THE DELICATE DANCE 409 AMAZING GRACE 414 CANGGU: EAT, PRAY, FUCK 417 JUNGLE LOVE 434 APOCALYPSE HERE 438 MIKE PARSONS AND THE HOUNDS OF HELL 442 GOING TOO FAR 448 PURPOSE BUILT 455 TWO TICKETS TO PARADISE 459 JUNGLE STORY 469 WARM WHISKEY FOR ALL GHOSTS 480 IN GOD’S HANDS 493 THE BALI YOU REMEMBER 498 FAREWELL TO THE KING...FOR NOW 511 THEY ARE WHO YOU ARE 516 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS 520 ABOUT THE AUTHOR 522
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