Mindfulness and Surfing casts a fresh perspective on this popular sport, and explores how riding the waves can be the ultimate meditation. Through lunar cycles and river surfing to the Taoism of nature, this book reveals an acute awareness of what the oceans can tell us about our place in the natural world.
Mindfulness and Surfing casts a fresh perspective on this popular sport, and explores how riding the waves can be the ultimate meditation. Through lunar cycles and river surfing to the Taoism of nature, this book reveals an acute awareness of what the oceans can tell us about our place in the natural world.
Sam Bleakley is a writer, geographer, filmmaker, adventure activist, surf contest commentator, lecturer in sustainable tourism and former European longboard champion. Sam is a specialist on emerging surf cultures, with particular interest in a new wave of Asian surfers who advocate the ancient practices of mindfulness in Buddhism and Taoism.
Inhaltsangabe
Prelims pp1–7 Introduction: TAKING OFF pp8–17 Ocean healing Surfing as meditation The water curtain falls to a God’s applause Chapter 1: OCEAN SWELL pp18–33 Landscape of the senses Threefold way The BodyMind Coping with panic Ecological perception & the coastscape Mindfulness exercise: Sea Air Sound Therapy Chapter 2: DROPPING INTO THE WAVE pp34–53 Breaking point Caught between fish and bird Music, improvisation and dance Lunar cycles and tide lines A geographical imagination Mindfulness exercise: Celebrating the Salt Stain Chapter 3: SURFING WITH THE ANCIENTS pp54–75 Hawaii to California: a brief history of surfing Walk, don’t shuffle: the art of longboarding Cornwall: Land of the dead-who-feed-the-living Riding with the seasons Mindfulness exercise 3: Creating Rhythm from Chop Chapter 4: LETTING FREEDOM RING pp76–93 Beating hearts and drums: Surfing and slavery West Africa: The animal pulse Haitian vodou The spirit of place Mindfulness exercise: Visualising the Ride Chapter 5: BECOMING CHILDREN OF THE TIDE pp94–117 Surfing in China: Entering the waves Taoism: Taught by nature Confucianism: Surfing etiquette Buddhism: the still point at the centre of movement Mindfulness exercise: Waxing Up the Board Chapter 6: SURFING THE NEW WAVE pp118–139 Guardians of the ocean The blue and green gyms River surfing and wave gardens Mindfulness exercise: Meditations for Saltwater Souls Endmatter: Further reading, index & acknowledgements pp140–144
Prelims pp1–7 Introduction: TAKING OFF pp8–17 Ocean healing Surfing as meditation The water curtain falls to a God’s applause Chapter 1: OCEAN SWELL pp18–33 Landscape of the senses Threefold way The BodyMind Coping with panic Ecological perception & the coastscape Mindfulness exercise: Sea Air Sound Therapy Chapter 2: DROPPING INTO THE WAVE pp34–53 Breaking point Caught between fish and bird Music, improvisation and dance Lunar cycles and tide lines A geographical imagination Mindfulness exercise: Celebrating the Salt Stain Chapter 3: SURFING WITH THE ANCIENTS pp54–75 Hawaii to California: a brief history of surfing Walk, don’t shuffle: the art of longboarding Cornwall: Land of the dead-who-feed-the-living Riding with the seasons Mindfulness exercise 3: Creating Rhythm from Chop Chapter 4: LETTING FREEDOM RING pp76–93 Beating hearts and drums: Surfing and slavery West Africa: The animal pulse Haitian vodou The spirit of place Mindfulness exercise: Visualising the Ride Chapter 5: BECOMING CHILDREN OF THE TIDE pp94–117 Surfing in China: Entering the waves Taoism: Taught by nature Confucianism: Surfing etiquette Buddhism: the still point at the centre of movement Mindfulness exercise: Waxing Up the Board Chapter 6: SURFING THE NEW WAVE pp118–139 Guardians of the ocean The blue and green gyms River surfing and wave gardens Mindfulness exercise: Meditations for Saltwater Souls Endmatter: Further reading, index & acknowledgements pp140–144
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