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OF THE GREAT CITIES of the world, Florence is, and always has been, small, but has nevertheless led the world in art, science and political idealism from the middle ages to modern times. Dante, Giotto, Brunelleschi, Leonardo, Michelangelo, Galileo and so many other giants were all Florentines; the importance of their achievements and the great quantity of visible remains which they have left behind, along with an idyllic setting, make Florence uniquely attractive. Eve Borsook, an art historian living in the city, unravels Florence's history in chapters devoted to each neighbourhood. Her perfect day in Florence includes a church, a stroll through a market, a visit to a craftsman in his workshop, a museum -- and a picnic; with this guide to hand, the visitor to Florence may follow suit.