Victorian Material Culture

Herausgeber: Kontou, Tatiana; Tennant, Kara

• Gebundenes Buch

Produktbeschreibung

From chatelaines to whale blubber, ice making machines to stained glass, this 6-volume collection will be of interest to the scholar, student or general reader - anyone keen to learn about Victorian things. This volume, 'Fashionable Things', will focus on Victorian fads and fashions, from chatelains to insect jewellery.

Produktdetails

• Verlag: CRC Press
• Seitenzahl: 404
• Erscheinungstermin: 14. Juli 2022
• Englisch
• Abmessung: 234mm x 156mm x 24mm
• Gewicht: 771g
• ISBN-13: 9781138225381
• ISBN-10: 113822538X
• Artikelnr.: 69943134

Autorenporträt

Tatiana Kontou is Senior Lecturer in Nineteenth-Century Literature, Oxford Brookes University, UK. Kara Tennant teaches Fashion Theory at the University of South Wales, UK

Inhaltsangabe

Introduction Part 1-Embodying Fashionability 1.1 Context Headnote 1.1 1. H. R. H.
'A Complaint'
The Lady's Newspaper
9 January 1847
p. 26. 2. Mrs Merrifield
'How Far Should the Fashions be Followed?'
The Lady's Newspaper
7 July 1855
p. 12 3. [Anon.]
'Conduct and Carriage; Or
Rules to Guide a Young Lady on Points of Etiquette and Good Breeding in her Intercourse with the World'
The Ladies' Treasury
June 1857
pp. 119-20. 4. Caroline Stephen
'Thoughtfulness in Dress'
The Cornhill Magazine
September 1868
pp. 281- 98. 5. [Anon.]
'A Lady's Question: What Shall We Wear?'
London Society
May 1869
pp. 410-14. 6. E. P. 'The Tyranny of Fashion'
The Cornhill Magazine
July 1878
pp. 83-94. 7. Mrs. H. R Haweis
'Importance of Dress'
in The Art of Beauty (New York: Harper & Brothers
Publishers
1878)
pp. 11-18. 8. [Anon.]
Statement
The Rational Dress Society Gazette
January 1889
p. 1. 1.2 Outlines; Contours; Boundaries Shaping the Silhouette: the Corset & the Crinolette Headnote 1.2.1 9. Anne Roxey Caplin
'On Gestation'
Health and Beauty; or Woman and her Clothing Considered in Relation to the Physiological Laws of the Human Body
London: Kent and and Co. Paternoster Row
1864
pp. 99-115. 10. Advertisement
'The London Corset Company'
Hearth and Home
27 Dec. 1900
p. 317 11. Photograph of Crinolette
Great Britain
ca. 1870 The 'Grecian Bend'
'Little Feet' and the 'Alexandra Limp' Headnote 1.2.2 12. Uncle Grumbler
'"The Grecian Bend."'
Sharpe's London Magazine
January 1869
pp. 110-11. 13. S. L. B.
'The Lady with the Little Feet'
London Society
June 1869
pp. 494-506. 14. [Anon.]
'The Grecian Bend'
Punch
2 October 1869
p. 132. 15. [Anon.]
'General News'
The Glasgow Daily Herald
25 January 1870
p. 4. 16. [Anon.]
'Fashion's Follies'
Fun
2 April 1870
p. 35. The 'Dolly Varden': A Literary Fashion Headnote 1.2.3 17. Charles Dickens
Barnaby Rudge; A Tale of the Riots of 'Eighty. London: Chapman and Hall
1841
pp. 42-3. 18. G. W. Hunt
'Dolly Varden' (music title page). Boston: Oliver Ditson & Co. 19. The Silkworm
'Spinnings in Town'
The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine
1 June 1871
pp. 362. 20. [Anon.]
'Dolly Vardens'
Scribner's Monthly
June 1872
pp. 248-9 21. [Anon.]
'Observations on London and Parisian Fashions'
The Ladies' Monthly Magazine
the World of Fashion
1 July 1872
p. 1. 1.3 Cosmetics Headnote 1.3 22. [Anon.]
'Materials for the Toilette. VIII.'
The Saturday Magazine
25 January 1840
pp. 27-8. 23. Advertisement for Pears's Rouge & Pearl Powder
The Ladies' Monthly Magazine
The World of Fashion. A Journal of the Courts of London and Paris
1 February 1856. 24. 'Rouge'
The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine
1 December 1868
p. 317. 25. Charles Reade
Charles
'A Simpleton. A Story of the Day'
London Society
December 1872
pp. 495-497. 26. Medicus
'The Toilet-Table
and What Should Lie Thereon'
The Girl's Own Paper
9 April 1881
pp. 443-4. 27. Advertisement for Rice-Powder
Myra's Journal
1 June 1890
p. 22. 28. Advertisement for 'Safe Complexion Lotions'
Myra's Journal
1 Sept 1897
p. 7. 1.4 Hair Headnote 1.4 29. [Anon.]
'The Honeymoon'
Punch
22 August 1857
p. 81. 30. M. E. Braddon
Lady Audley's Secret
Leipzig: Bernhard Tauchniz
1862
pp. 82-3. 31. [Anon.]
'Insane Female Fashions. Bunches of False Hair Behind'
Dundee Courier
13 November 1865. 32. [Anon.]
'Chignons Doomed'
The Penny Illustrated Paper
6 February 1869
p. 91. 33. [Anon.]
'L'EAU DES FEES'
The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine
January 1873
p. 50. 34. Advertisement for Grey Hair in Browne
Montagu
Practical Taxidermy
London: L. Uppcot Gill
1884 35. Thomas
Hardy
Jude the Obscure
New York and London: Harper and Brother Publishers
1895
pp. 63-64 36. Advertisement for Unwin & Albert
Ladies Ornamental Hair Workers and Expert Wig Makers
Hearth and Home
vol. 20
no. 498
29 Nov. 1900
p. 130. Part 2--Dressing Up 2.1 Wedding Dress and Accoutrements Headnote 2.1 37. Celata
'My Wedding Ring'
Livesey's Moral Reformer
August 1838
p. 152. 38. Elizabeth Henderson
Fashion Plate
'Public promenade and bridal dresses'
The Ladies' Cabinet of Fashion
Music and Romance
May 1847. 39. [Anon.]
'Letter From Aunt Lydia About Orange-Blossoms'
The Lady's Newspaper
10 May1862
pp. 389-90. 40. C. Sears
Lancaster
'My Wedding-Bonnet'
Le Follet
September 1863
pp. 65-9. 41. Photograph by Julia Margaret Cameron
'Dora as the Bride' (sitter Annie Chinery Cameron)
albumen print
1869. 42. Edward Killingworth Johnson
Drawing depicting a young widow holding her wedding dress. Water-colour and gouache
1877. 43. Alice Maud Meadows
'May's Wedding Dress'
Tinsleys' Magazine
December 1885
p. 523. 44. [Anon.]
'Modern Weddings'
Le Monde ¿légant or the World of Fashion
June 1888
p. 81. 45. [Anon.] 'Wedding Costume'
The Ladies' Treasury
1 July 1892
p. 426. 46. [Anon.]
'The Trousseau of Today'
The Girl's Own Paper
7 October 1899
pp. 4-6. 47. Dora De Blaquière
'The Trousseau of Today. Part II.'
The Girl's Own Paper
23 December 1899
pp. 177-81. 2.2 Mourning Attire Headnote 2.2 48. Helen
'Lines on Giving Up Wearing a Locket of Hair'
The World of Fashion
1 February 1846
p. 33. 49. Mourning brooches containing the hair of a deceased relative. 50. Elizabeth Gaskell
Mary Barton: A Tale of Manchester Life ... In Two Volumes ... Third Edition. London: 1849. 51. [Anon.]
'The Paris and London Fashions'
The Lady's Newspaper & Pictorial Times
9 Nov. 1850
p. 260 52. [Anon.]
'Conduct and Carriage; Or
Rules to Guide a Young Lady on Points of Etiquette and Good Breeding in her Intercourse with the World'
The Ladies' Treasury
November 1857
pp. 270. 53. [Anon.]
'Fancy Black.'
Punch
30 April 1864
p. 175. 54. Mary Elizabeth Braddon
'Oh
My Cousin
Shallow Hearted!'
in The Doctor's Wife. 3 vols. [Vol. II]. (London: John Maxwell and Company
1864)
p. 16. 55.William Halford & Charles Young
manufacturing jewellers
The jewellers' book of patterns in hair work : containing a great variety of copper-plate engravings of devices and patterns in hair; suitable for mourning jewellery
brooches
rings
guards
alberts
necklets
lockets
bracelets
miniatures
studs
links
earrings
&c
London
1864
p. 28
39. 56. Photograph by Julia Margaret Cameron
'A young woman in mourning dress'
1868/1872. 57. The Silkworm
'Spinnings in Town'
The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine
November 1871
pp. 298-9. 58. Sylvia
'On the Etiquette of Mourning'
How To Dress Well On A Shilling a Day: A Ladies' Guide to Home Dressmaking and Millinery
London: Ward
Lock
& Tyler
1876
pp. 87-93. 59. [Anon.]
'Mourning as a Fashion'
The London Reader
17 February 1877
p. 376. 60. E. M. Davy
E. M. 'A Glove's Evidence'
The Argosy
February 1885
pp. 156-7. 61. [Anon.]
'Mourning'
Hearth and Home
18 Aug. 1892
p. 461. 62. [Anon.]
'Fashion in Mourning'
Bow Bells
30 November 1894
pp. 545-6. 2.3 Adornments Chatelaines Headnote 2.3.1 63. 'The Chatelaine; A Really Useful Present'
Punch
or the London Charivari
13 Jan. 1849
p. 16. 64. 'Multiple Display Advertisements
' Le Follet
1 July 1889. 65. Cut-steel chatelaine with attachments
England
circa 1863 - 1885. 66. 'A Parisian Toilette'
Myra's Journal
1 July 1895
p. 3. 67. [Anon.]
'"The Return of the Chatelaine" Our Home Circle'
Newcastle Courant
27 Jan. 1900
p. 5 Jewellery Headnote 2.3.2 68. [Anon.]
'A Word or Two About Cameos' in Cassell's Household Guide: being a complete encyclopaedia of domestic and social economy and forming a guide to every department of practical life
London: Cassell
Petter
and Galpin
1869
pp. 123 69. [Anon]
'Coral Jewellery and Peasant Ornaments' Morning Post
27 May 1872
p. 2. 70. George Eliot
Middlemarch
extract from chapter XXII
London: William Blackwood and Sons
1874. 71. Advertisement
'The Beatrice Silver and Gold Jewellery'
Le Follet
1 Oct. 1881. 72. [Anon.]
'Jewels and How to Wear Them'
Belfast News-Letter
27 Dec. 1894. 73. [Anon.]
'The Latest Ideas in Jewellery Seen at Swan and Edgar's Piccadilly and Regent Street'
Hearth and Home
Nov. 1897
p. 1029 Part 3--Animal and Insect Accessories; Home Decoration Headnote 3 74. [Anon.]
'The Best French Kid Gloves'
The Ladies' Cabinet
January 1857
pp. 32-3. 75. William Kidd
'The Fairy Bird-Cage'
The National Magazine
February 1857
p. 240. 76. Mrs. Henry [Ellen] Wood
East Lynne
3 vols [vol. 1] [second edition]. London: Richard Bentley
pp. 91-4. 77. Untitled Fashion-Plate
Journal des Demoiselles
August 1864. 78. [Anon.]
'The Fashions'
The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine
June 1868
pp. 312-14. 79. P. L. Simmonds
'Art-Inroads on Natural History'
The Art-Journal
November 1872
pp. 271-3. 80. [Anon.]
'BEETLE-WINGS' ('Enquiries:'; Enquiry from 'ELSIE')
The Treasury of Literature and The Ladies Treasury
1 September 1874
p. 168
and [Anon.]
'BEETLE-WINGS (ELSIE)' ('Answers to Enquiries'; Response to 'ELSIE')
1 October 1874
The Treasury of Literature and The Ladies Treasury
p. 224. 81. [Anon.]
'The Strange Story of a Sealskin. A Tale of Metempsychosis'
Judy
Or The London Serio-Comic Journal
24 November 1875
p. 52. 82. [Anon.]
'Living Jewellery'
Funny Folks: A Weekly Budget of Funny Pictures
Funny Notes
Funny Jokes
and Funny Stories
vol. V
no. 223
8 March 1879
p. 77. 83. Montagu Browne
Practical Taxidermy
London: L. Uppcot Gill
1884
p. 261 and Advertisement. 84. Mrs. M. E. Haweis
'Smashed Birds'
Belgravia
May 1887
pp. 336-40
343-44. 85. [Anon.]
'Christmas & New Year Gifts'
Le Follet
December 1892
p. 10. 86. J. H.
'New Styles in Furs'
Myra's Journal
vol. XXII
no. 11
1 Nov. 1896
p. 32. 87. C. W. Gedney
'Victims of Vanity'
The English Illustrated Magazine
August 1899
pp. 417-26. Part 4. Handicraft Headnote 4 88. [Anon.]
Potichomania; Or
the Art of Imitating Porcelain. London: Hutton & Co.
1850. 89. Rebekah Skill
'Introduction' (Extracts)
in The Art of Modelling Wax Flowers
Fully And Clearly Explained
Accompanied with Accurate Patterns for Various Flowers
Decorations for Tinting
&c.
By Which The Attainment Of This Elegant Art Becomes Simple and Easy (London: Simpkin
Marshall
and Co. 1852)
pp. 9-19. 90. [Anon.]
'Curiosities of Industry Among the Ladies'
Chambers's Journal
7 April 1855
pp. 209-12. 91. [Anon.]
'Weaving or Plaiting Hair Ornaments'
and 'Ornamental Bead and Bugle Work
in Elegant Arts for Ladies (London: Ward and Lock
1856)
pp. 3-10
61-63. 92. [Anon.]
'Ladies Card-Case in Gold Thread with Steel Beads on Kid'
The Lady's Newspaper and Pictorial Times
27 September 1862
p. 201. 93. Anon.]
'Imitation White Coral Basket'
Bow Bells
9 November 1864
p. 357. 94. [Anon.]
'Household Decorative Art. II - Diaphanie'
Cassell's Household Guide: Being A Complete Encyclopædia of Domestic and Social Economy
and Forming A Guide to Every Department of Practical Life (Vol. I). (London: Cassell
Petter
and Galpin: 1869)
pp. 92-3. 95. [Anon.]
'The Fair Hand. A Story For Girls.'
Our Young Folks Weekly Budget
5 July 1873
p. 277. 96. [Anon.]
'A Sea-Weed Album'
The Ladies' Treasury
1 December 1876
p. 727. 97. [Anon.]
'Uses for Shells and Sea-Weeds'
The Girl's Own Paper
13 November 1880
p. 99-100. 98. Dora Hope
'How to Preserve Leaves and Flowers'
Silver Sails: Being the Holiday No. of The Girl's Own Paper
1882
pp. 33-5. 99. [Anon.]
'Answers to Correspondents' (Response to 'G. R.' and 'P.')
The Girl's Own Paper
2 January 1886
pp. 224. 100. John Strange Henrietta Eliza Vaughan Stannard
Mignon's Secret
Extract from Chapter III. (New York: George Munro
1886; Seaside Library Pocket Edition)
pp. 21-4. 101. [Anon.]
'Editorial Notes'
Pick-Me-Up
17 August 1889
p. 314. Index