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Welcome to Ethan Stowell's New Italian Kitchen--not so much a place as a philosophy. Here food isn't formal or fussy, just focused, with recipes that honor Italian tradition while celebrating the best ingredients the Pacific Northwest has to offer. We're talking about a generous bowl of steaming handmade pasta--served with two forks for you and a friend. Or perhaps an impeccably fresh crudo, crunchy cucumber and tangy radish accenting impossibly sweet spot prawns. Next up are the jewel tones of a beet salad with lush, homemade ricotta, or maybe a tangle of white beans and clams spiked with…mehr
Welcome to Ethan Stowell's New Italian Kitchen--not so much a place as a philosophy. Here food isn't formal or fussy, just focused, with recipes that honor Italian tradition while celebrating the best ingredients the Pacific Northwest has to offer. We're talking about a generous bowl of steaming handmade pasta--served with two forks for you and a friend. Or perhaps an impeccably fresh crudo, crunchy cucumber and tangy radish accenting impossibly sweet spot prawns. Next up are the jewel tones of a beet salad with lush, homemade ricotta, or maybe a tangle of white beans and clams spiked with Goat Horn pepper--finished off with a whole roasted fish that begs to be sucked off the bones. Oh, some cheese, a gooseberry compote complementing your Robiola, or the bittersweet surprise of Campari sorbet. This layered approach is a hallmark of Ethan's restaurants, and in his New Italian Kitchen, he offers home cooks a tantalizing roadmap for re-creating this style of eating. Prepare a feast simply by combining the lighter dishes found in "Nibbles and Bits"-from Sardine Crudo with Celery Hearts, Pine Nuts, and Lemon to Crispy Young Favas with Green Garlic Mayonnaise-or adding recipes with complex flavors for a more sophisticated meal. Try the luscious Corn and Chanterelle Soup from "The Measure of a Cook;" or the Cavatelli with Cuttlefish, Spring Onion, and Lemon from "Wheat's Highest Calling." Up the ante with a stunning Duck Leg Farrotto with Pearl Onions and Bloomsdale Spinach from "Starches to Grow On," or choose one of the "Beasties of the Land," like Skillet-Roasted Rabbit with Pancetta-Basted Fingerlings. Each combination will nudge you and your guests in new, unexpected, and unforgettable directions. Every page of Ethan Stowell's New Italian Kitchen captures the enthusiasm, humor, and imagination that make cooking one of life's best and most satisfying adventures. It's got to be good--but it's also got to be fun.
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Autorenporträt
ETHAN STOWELL was named one of the 2008 Best New Chefs in America by Food & Wine magazine and is a multiple James Beard Award nominee for Best Chef Northwest. Ethan is the chef/owner of four celebrated Seattle restaurants that have achieved national acclaim with rave reviews from GQ, Wine Spectator, Gourmet, and Bon Appétit, among others. In 2010, Ethan launched Lagana Foods, a line of artisan pastas. Ethan lives in Ballard, his favorite neighborhood in Seattle, with his wife, Angela. LESLIE MILLER's writing has appeared in a dozen anthologies, plus periodicals including NW Palate and TimeOut New York. The co-author of four other books, she is also the editor of Women Who Eat: A New Generation on the Glory of Food. Leslie is partner in the Seattle writing and editing firm Girl Friday Productions.
Inhaltsangabe
ix Acknowledgments 1 Introduction 3 A Note on Ingredients
Nibbles and Bits
8 Baked Stellar Bay Kusshi Oysters with Garlic Breadcrumbs and Oregano 10 Bruschetta with Smashed Chickpeas and Grilled Lamb’s Tongue 11 Crispy Young Favas with Green Garlic Mayonnaise 13 Beef Carpaccio with Preserved Pecorino Sardoand Arugula 14 Carne Cruda with Anchovy and Garlic 18 Fried Artichokes Pangratatto 21 Fried Ipswich Clams with Sorrel Aioli 23 Fun with Geoduck 24 Geoduck Crudo with Fennel and Radish 24 Geoduck Scramble with Crème Fraîche 25 Manila Clams on the Half Shell with Fennel,Lemon, and Chiles 26 Sardine Crudo with Celery Hearts, Pine Nuts,and Lemon 28 Marinated Octopus 29 Pickled Vegetables 31 Sea Bass Crudo with Vanilla Oil, English Peas,and Mint 32 Soft-Shell Crab Bruschetta with Spring Garlic Aioli 32 Spot Prawn Crudo with Chile and Mint 34 Frittata with Morels and Savory 35 Bruschetta with Fresh Ricotta and Pine NutSalsa Verde 37 Soft-Boiled Eggs with Anchovy Mayonnaise 38 Shigoku Oysters on the Half Shell withAccompaniments 39 Uni Spoons
The Measure of a Cook: Soups
42 Soups with Artichokes 42 Essence of Artichoke Soup 42 Farro and Artichoke Soup 44 Mediterranean Mussel and Chickpea Soup withFennel and Lemon 46 Clam Brodetto 47 Parmesan Brodo 48 Oxtail Soup with Farro and Root Vegetables 51 Farmers’ Market Soup 52 English Pea Soup with Poached Duck Egg 53 Kabocha and Porcini Soup 54 Corn and Chanterelle Soup 56 Heirloom Tomato Soup with Garlic Croutons 57 Sorrel and Yogurt Soup
Starches to Grow On: Gnocchi, Polenta, Risotto, and Farrotto
60 Basic Potato Gnocchi 63 Gnocchi with Morels and Fried Duck Egg 64 Ricotta Gnocchi with Beef Short Rib Ragu 66 Polenta Master Recipes 66 Soft Polenta 66 Firm Polenta 68 Sautéed Chicken Livers with Mushrooms andOnions on Soft Polenta 69 Grilled Polenta with Heirloom Tomatoes andPounded Anchovy Sauce 70 Sautéed Polenta with Hedgehog Mushroomsand Aged Provolone 71 A Trio of Spring Risottos 71 Spring Garlic Risotto 72 Ramp Risotto with Shaved Porcini 73 Artichoke Risotto 74 Clam Risotto with Lemon 76 Butternut Squash Risotto with Hazelnut Oil 77 Farrotto with English Peas and Morels 79 Duck Leg Farrotto with Pearl Onions andBloomsdale Spinach
Wheat’s Highest Calling: Pasta
84 Pasta Master Recipes 84 Egg Pasta 84 Semolina Pasta 89 Braised Rabbit Paws with Radiatore 90 Linguine with Shrimp 91 Cavatelli with Cuttlefish, Spring Onion, and Lemon 92 Fava Bean Agnolotti with Snails and Herbed Butter 95 Gnocchetti with Pancetta, Chanterelles, and Mint 96 Tagliarini with Totten Virginica Oysters, Prosecco,Chives, and Cream 97 Maloreddus with Squid, Tomato Sauce, and Lemon 98 Spaghetti with Garlic, Chile, and Sea Urchin 100 Trofie with Nettle Pesto 102 Pappardelle with Tomato Sauce and MarinatedPecorino Sardo 103 Bigoli with Grilled Sardines and Fennel 104 Duck Egg Ravioli with Ricotta and Swiss Chard 105 Switch-Hitting Clams with Ramps 106 Cannelloni with Braised Pork Cheeks andSweet Cicely
Something Foraged, Something Green: Salads, Vegetables, and Sides
110 Baby Beet Salad with Fresh Ricotta 111 Endive Salad with Creamy Meyer Lemon Vinaigrette 112 Seared Rabbit Loin with Frisée and Pancetta 115 Lentils with Pancetta 116 Fried Cauliflower with Ham Hock 119 Lobster Mushrooms with Preserved Garlic, Parsley, and Oregano 120 Miner’s Lettuce, Fava Beans, English Peas, and Spring Garlic with White Balsamic Vinaigrette 121 Shaved Artichoke and Wild Watercress Salad 122 Blood Orange Salad with Shallot andTaggiasca Olives 125 Rapini with Garlic, Chile, and Lemon 126 Delicata Squash with Chestnut Honey 127 Puntarelle with Anchovy, Garlic, and Parsley Dressing 128 Pickled Mackerel Salad with Watercress, Radish,and Pistachio 131 Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Artichokes with Garlic and Thyme 132 Company Alligator Pear 135 Panzanella with Crispy Pig’s Ear 137 Potato and Asparagus Salad with Home-Cured Bacon and Egg 138 Thumbelina Carrots with Orange and Mint 140 Pheromone Salad (Shaved Porcini Salad) 141 Swiss Chard with Pine Nuts and Golden Raisins
Beasties of the Land . . .
144 Braised Pork Jowls with the Maligned Mélange 146 Home-Cured Bacon 148 Lamb Chops with Finger Favas 149 Venison Loin with Cipollini Agrodolce 150 Veal Sweetbreads with Parsley, Capers, and Lemon 152 Seared Duck Breast with Sugared Figs and Arugula 153 Braised Veal Cheeks with Grilled Ramps and Porcini 155 Skillet-Roasted Rabbit with Pancetta-Basted Fingerlings 156 Roast Quail Stuffed with Pancetta, Lacinato Kale, and Sage 158 Pan-Roasted Squab with Spring Garlic Compote 159 Party Meats 159 Party Tripe on Soft Polenta 160 Zatar-Rubbed Leg of Goat with Fresh Chickpeas, Spring Onion, and Sorrel 162 Grilled T-Bone with Garlic, Lemon, and Controne Beans 163 Italian “Tacos”
. . . and Sea
167 Grilled Sardines with Baby Fennel, Capers, and Taggiasca Olives 168 Mob-Hit Squid 170 Fluke with Radish and Citrus Relish 171 Ode to the Northwest (with a Nod to Cincinnati) 172 Roasted Skate Wing with Brown Butter and Potatoes 174 Black Bass with Thyme, Lemon, and Garlic 175 Poached Black Bass with Spring Garlic and Mint 177 Seared Scallops with Chanterelles and Parsnip and Pear Purée 178 Steamed Clams with Guanciale and Sorrel 179 Prosciutto-Wrapped Soft-Shell Crab Cigars with Shaved Radish and Arugula Salad 181 Grilled Mackerel with Crispy Potatoes and Caperand Preserved Lemon Sauce
Cheese for the Civilized and Desserts for the Rest of You
184 Goat Cheese with Chestnut Honey andHazelnut Dust 185 Ginepro with Gin-Soaked Pear 186 La Tur with Oven-Roasted Tomato Petals 189 Lemon Verbena Panna Cotta with Poached Peaches 190 Robiola with Gooseberry Compote 191 Cacio Faenum with Baked Apricot and Almond Purée 192 Rhubarb Soup with Prosecco 193 Roasted Figs with Chocolate-Espresso Ganache 194 Chocolate Ice Cream 195 Toasted Walnut Ice Cream 196 Pear–Star Anise Ice Cream 197 Melon Sorbet 199 Campari–Blood Orange Sorbet 200 Blueberry-Basil Sorbet 201 Espresso Granita with Grappa Cream 202 Zabaglione with Mixed Berries 203 Cardamom Sablés 204 Pie Cookies 205 Pine Nut Crumbles 206 Almond Cake with Bay-Poached Queen Anne Cherries 208 Chocolate Pumpkin Tart
ix Acknowledgments 1 Introduction 3 A Note on Ingredients
Nibbles and Bits
8 Baked Stellar Bay Kusshi Oysters with Garlic Breadcrumbs and Oregano 10 Bruschetta with Smashed Chickpeas and Grilled Lamb’s Tongue 11 Crispy Young Favas with Green Garlic Mayonnaise 13 Beef Carpaccio with Preserved Pecorino Sardoand Arugula 14 Carne Cruda with Anchovy and Garlic 18 Fried Artichokes Pangratatto 21 Fried Ipswich Clams with Sorrel Aioli 23 Fun with Geoduck 24 Geoduck Crudo with Fennel and Radish 24 Geoduck Scramble with Crème Fraîche 25 Manila Clams on the Half Shell with Fennel,Lemon, and Chiles 26 Sardine Crudo with Celery Hearts, Pine Nuts,and Lemon 28 Marinated Octopus 29 Pickled Vegetables 31 Sea Bass Crudo with Vanilla Oil, English Peas,and Mint 32 Soft-Shell Crab Bruschetta with Spring Garlic Aioli 32 Spot Prawn Crudo with Chile and Mint 34 Frittata with Morels and Savory 35 Bruschetta with Fresh Ricotta and Pine NutSalsa Verde 37 Soft-Boiled Eggs with Anchovy Mayonnaise 38 Shigoku Oysters on the Half Shell withAccompaniments 39 Uni Spoons
The Measure of a Cook: Soups
42 Soups with Artichokes 42 Essence of Artichoke Soup 42 Farro and Artichoke Soup 44 Mediterranean Mussel and Chickpea Soup withFennel and Lemon 46 Clam Brodetto 47 Parmesan Brodo 48 Oxtail Soup with Farro and Root Vegetables 51 Farmers’ Market Soup 52 English Pea Soup with Poached Duck Egg 53 Kabocha and Porcini Soup 54 Corn and Chanterelle Soup 56 Heirloom Tomato Soup with Garlic Croutons 57 Sorrel and Yogurt Soup
Starches to Grow On: Gnocchi, Polenta, Risotto, and Farrotto
60 Basic Potato Gnocchi 63 Gnocchi with Morels and Fried Duck Egg 64 Ricotta Gnocchi with Beef Short Rib Ragu 66 Polenta Master Recipes 66 Soft Polenta 66 Firm Polenta 68 Sautéed Chicken Livers with Mushrooms andOnions on Soft Polenta 69 Grilled Polenta with Heirloom Tomatoes andPounded Anchovy Sauce 70 Sautéed Polenta with Hedgehog Mushroomsand Aged Provolone 71 A Trio of Spring Risottos 71 Spring Garlic Risotto 72 Ramp Risotto with Shaved Porcini 73 Artichoke Risotto 74 Clam Risotto with Lemon 76 Butternut Squash Risotto with Hazelnut Oil 77 Farrotto with English Peas and Morels 79 Duck Leg Farrotto with Pearl Onions andBloomsdale Spinach
Wheat’s Highest Calling: Pasta
84 Pasta Master Recipes 84 Egg Pasta 84 Semolina Pasta 89 Braised Rabbit Paws with Radiatore 90 Linguine with Shrimp 91 Cavatelli with Cuttlefish, Spring Onion, and Lemon 92 Fava Bean Agnolotti with Snails and Herbed Butter 95 Gnocchetti with Pancetta, Chanterelles, and Mint 96 Tagliarini with Totten Virginica Oysters, Prosecco,Chives, and Cream 97 Maloreddus with Squid, Tomato Sauce, and Lemon 98 Spaghetti with Garlic, Chile, and Sea Urchin 100 Trofie with Nettle Pesto 102 Pappardelle with Tomato Sauce and MarinatedPecorino Sardo 103 Bigoli with Grilled Sardines and Fennel 104 Duck Egg Ravioli with Ricotta and Swiss Chard 105 Switch-Hitting Clams with Ramps 106 Cannelloni with Braised Pork Cheeks andSweet Cicely
Something Foraged, Something Green: Salads, Vegetables, and Sides
110 Baby Beet Salad with Fresh Ricotta 111 Endive Salad with Creamy Meyer Lemon Vinaigrette 112 Seared Rabbit Loin with Frisée and Pancetta 115 Lentils with Pancetta 116 Fried Cauliflower with Ham Hock 119 Lobster Mushrooms with Preserved Garlic, Parsley, and Oregano 120 Miner’s Lettuce, Fava Beans, English Peas, and Spring Garlic with White Balsamic Vinaigrette 121 Shaved Artichoke and Wild Watercress Salad 122 Blood Orange Salad with Shallot andTaggiasca Olives 125 Rapini with Garlic, Chile, and Lemon 126 Delicata Squash with Chestnut Honey 127 Puntarelle with Anchovy, Garlic, and Parsley Dressing 128 Pickled Mackerel Salad with Watercress, Radish,and Pistachio 131 Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Artichokes with Garlic and Thyme 132 Company Alligator Pear 135 Panzanella with Crispy Pig’s Ear 137 Potato and Asparagus Salad with Home-Cured Bacon and Egg 138 Thumbelina Carrots with Orange and Mint 140 Pheromone Salad (Shaved Porcini Salad) 141 Swiss Chard with Pine Nuts and Golden Raisins
Beasties of the Land . . .
144 Braised Pork Jowls with the Maligned Mélange 146 Home-Cured Bacon 148 Lamb Chops with Finger Favas 149 Venison Loin with Cipollini Agrodolce 150 Veal Sweetbreads with Parsley, Capers, and Lemon 152 Seared Duck Breast with Sugared Figs and Arugula 153 Braised Veal Cheeks with Grilled Ramps and Porcini 155 Skillet-Roasted Rabbit with Pancetta-Basted Fingerlings 156 Roast Quail Stuffed with Pancetta, Lacinato Kale, and Sage 158 Pan-Roasted Squab with Spring Garlic Compote 159 Party Meats 159 Party Tripe on Soft Polenta 160 Zatar-Rubbed Leg of Goat with Fresh Chickpeas, Spring Onion, and Sorrel 162 Grilled T-Bone with Garlic, Lemon, and Controne Beans 163 Italian “Tacos”
. . . and Sea
167 Grilled Sardines with Baby Fennel, Capers, and Taggiasca Olives 168 Mob-Hit Squid 170 Fluke with Radish and Citrus Relish 171 Ode to the Northwest (with a Nod to Cincinnati) 172 Roasted Skate Wing with Brown Butter and Potatoes 174 Black Bass with Thyme, Lemon, and Garlic 175 Poached Black Bass with Spring Garlic and Mint 177 Seared Scallops with Chanterelles and Parsnip and Pear Purée 178 Steamed Clams with Guanciale and Sorrel 179 Prosciutto-Wrapped Soft-Shell Crab Cigars with Shaved Radish and Arugula Salad 181 Grilled Mackerel with Crispy Potatoes and Caperand Preserved Lemon Sauce
Cheese for the Civilized and Desserts for the Rest of You
184 Goat Cheese with Chestnut Honey andHazelnut Dust 185 Ginepro with Gin-Soaked Pear 186 La Tur with Oven-Roasted Tomato Petals 189 Lemon Verbena Panna Cotta with Poached Peaches 190 Robiola with Gooseberry Compote 191 Cacio Faenum with Baked Apricot and Almond Purée 192 Rhubarb Soup with Prosecco 193 Roasted Figs with Chocolate-Espresso Ganache 194 Chocolate Ice Cream 195 Toasted Walnut Ice Cream 196 Pear–Star Anise Ice Cream 197 Melon Sorbet 199 Campari–Blood Orange Sorbet 200 Blueberry-Basil Sorbet 201 Espresso Granita with Grappa Cream 202 Zabaglione with Mixed Berries 203 Cardamom Sablés 204 Pie Cookies 205 Pine Nut Crumbles 206 Almond Cake with Bay-Poached Queen Anne Cherries 208 Chocolate Pumpkin Tart
