Fashion Criticism (eBook, ePUB)

An Anthology
Redaktion: Granata, Francesca

• Format: ePub

Produktbeschreibung

This is the first anthology of fashion criticism, a growing field that has been too long overlooked. Fashion Criticism aims to redress the balance, claiming a place for writing on fashion alongside other more well-established areas of criticism.

Exploring the history of fashion criticism in the English language, this essential work takes readers from the writing published in avant-garde modernist magazines at the beginning of the twentieth century to the fashion criticism of Robin Givhan-the first fashion critic to win a Pulitzer Prize-and of Judith Thurman, a National Book Award winner. It covers the shift in newspapers from the so-called "women's pages" to the contemporary style sections, while unearthing the work of cultural critics and writers on fashion including Susan Sontag and Eve Babitz (Vogue), Bebe Moore Campbell (Ebony), Angela Carter (New Statesman) and Hilton Als (New Yorker).

Examining the gender dynamics of the field and its historical association with the feminine, Fashion Criticism demonstrates how fashion has gained ground as a subject of critical analysis, capitalizing on the centrality of dress and clothing in an increasingly visual and digital world. The book argues that fashion criticism occupied a central role in negotiating shifting gender roles as well as shifting understandings of race.

Bringing together two centuries of previously uncollected articles and writings, from Oscar Wilde's editorials in The Woman's World to the ground-breaking fashion journalism of the 1980s and today's proliferation of fashion bloggers, it will be an essential resource for students of fashion studies, media and journalism.

Produktdetails

• Verlag: Bloomsbury UK eBooks
• Seitenzahl: 240
• Erscheinungstermin: 28. Januar 2021
• Englisch
• ISBN-13: 9781350058798
• Artikelnr.: 61090035

Autorenporträt

Francesca Granata is Associate Professor of Fashion Studies at Parsons School of Design. She is the author of Experimental Fashion: Performance Art, Carnival and the Grotesque Body, and editor of the non-profit journal Fashion Projects.

Inhaltsangabe

Acknowledgments viii Introduction 1 PART I Late Nineteenth Century-1960s
Introduction to PART I 13 1 Mr. Oscar Wilde on Woman's Dress Oscar Wilde
17 2 Literary and Other Notes (excerpt) Oscar Wilde 19 3 Philosophic
Fashions: Who Fell Asleep on the King's Highway? Dame Rogue [Louise Norton]
23 4 Philosophic Fashions: Trouser-Talk (excerpt) Dame Rogue [Louise
Norton] 27 5 Philosophic Fashions: The Importance of Being Dressed Dame
Rogue [Louise Norton] 31 6 Feminine Fashions Lois Long 35 7 Feminine
Fashions Lois Long 37 8 Copying a Fancy Name Elizabeth Hawes 39 9 News .
News . News . Elizabeth Hawes 45 10 Fashions from Paris: A Suit Story at
Balenciaga Eugenia Sheppard 51 11 A Mini for Men? Eugenia Sheppard 53 12 A
Campaign Issue-Clothes? Eleni Epstein 55 13 Candidates in a Tie on
Fashion's Slate Eleni Epstein 57 PART II 1970s-1990s Introduction to PART
II 61 14 The Wound in the Face Angela Carter 65 15 Feminine Fashions: The
Fall Collections II Kennedy Fraser 69 16 Looking with Avedon Susan Sontag
77 17 What Happened to the Afro? Bebe Moore Campbell 81 18 Ralph Lauren's
Achievement Holly Brubach 87 19 In Fashion: Modernism Outmoded Holly
Brubach 95 20 Haute Coiffure de Gel Elizabeth Wilson 103 21 Hippie Heaven
Eve Babitz 107 22 Calvinism Unclothed Valerie Steele 113 23 Coming Apart
Amy Spindler 119 24 The Once and Future Suit Anne Hollander 125 25
Sexualities Anne Hollander 129 26 The Eastern Bloc Lynn Yaeger 133 27 Avant
Guardians Lynn Yaeger 137 28 The Only One Hilton Als 139 29 Buying the
Fantasy Hilton Als 147 30 Fashion's Military Fascination: Unsettling,
Romantic Esthetic Suzy Menkes 151 PART III Twenty-first Century
Introduction to PART III 155 31 Future, Take Note: Raf Simons Was Here
Cathy Horyn 159 32 Hussein Chalayan: Nostalgia for the Future Caroline
Evans 163 33 The Misfit Judith Thurman 169 34 Dressed to Thrill: Alexander
McQueen at the Met Judith Thurman 179 35 Why I Hate Abercrombie & Fitch
(Excerpt) Dwight A. McBride 183 36 The Mystery Man: Margiela, Be Mine
Sarah Mower 193 37 All Hail the Leader of the Fashionable World Robin
Givhan 197 38 The Revolution Will Be Branded Vetements Anja Aronowsky
Cronberg 201 39 Will I Get a Ticket? A Conversation about Life after Vogue
with Lucinda Chambers Anja Aronowsky Cronberg 205 40 Trump vs. the
Disappearing Tie Vanessa Friedman 209 41 Suket Dhir, Men's Wear Designer,
from Delhi to the World Guy Trebay 213 42 Melania Trump and the Chilling
Artifice of Fashion Rhonda Garelick 217 43 Is Wokeness in Fashion Just
Another Illusion? Connie Wang 219 Sources and Acknowledgments 222 Index 225