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The author of the acclaimed The Book of New Israeli Food returns with a cookbook devoted to the culinary masterpieces of Jewish grandmothers from Minsk to Marrakesh: recipes that have traveled across continents and cultural borders and are now brought to life for a new generation. For more than two thousand years, Jews all over the world developed cuisines that were suited to their needs (kashruth, holidays, Shabbat) but that also reflected the influences of their neighbors and that carried memories from their past wanderings. These cuisines may now be on the verge of extinction, however,…mehr
The author of the acclaimed The Book of New Israeli Food returns with a cookbook devoted to the culinary masterpieces of Jewish grandmothers from Minsk to Marrakesh: recipes that have traveled across continents and cultural borders and are now brought to life for a new generation. For more than two thousand years, Jews all over the world developed cuisines that were suited to their needs (kashruth, holidays, Shabbat) but that also reflected the influences of their neighbors and that carried memories from their past wanderings. These cuisines may now be on the verge of extinction, however, because almost none of the Jewish communities in which they developed and thrived still exist. But they continue to be viable in Israel, where there are still cooks from the immigrant generations who know and love these dishes. Israel has become a living laboratory for this beloved and endangered Jewish food. The more than one hundred original, wide-ranging recipes in Jewish Soul Food-from Kubaneh, a surprising Yemenite version of a brioche, to Ushpa-lau, a hearty Bukharan pilaf-were chosen not by an editor or a chef but, rather, by what Janna Gur calls "natural selection." These are the dishes that, though rooted in their original Diaspora provenance, have been embraced by Israelis and have become part of the country's culinary landscape. The premise of Jewish Soul Food is that the only way to preserve traditional cuisine for future generations is to cook it, and Janna Gur gives us recipes that continue to charm with their practicality, relevance, and deliciousness. Here are the best of the best: recipes from a fascinatingly diverse food culture that will give you a chance to enrich your own cooking repertoire and to preserve a valuable element of the Jewish heritage and of its collective soul. (With full-color photographs throughout.)
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Autorenporträt
JANNA GUR was born and raised in the former Soviet Union and immigrated to Israel in 1974. She is the founder and chief editor of the leading Israeli food and wine magazine. She lives in Tel Aviv.
Inhaltsangabe
CONTENTS
Introduction xi
STARTERS, SALADS, AND NOSHES Spicy Carrot Salad 2 Pickled Lemons 2 Beet Salad with Cumin and Cinnamon 4 Orange and Black Olives Salad 7 Harissa 7 Blue Ones with Red Ones Eggplant Salad with Tomatoes and Onions 8 Matboukha Pepper and Tomato Slow-Cooked Salsa 9 Mashawia Fresh Tomatoes and Roasted Peppers Salsa 11 Gehakte Leber Chopped Liver with Lots and Lots of Fried Onions 12 Schmaltz and Gribenes 14 Erez’s Chopped Liver 15 Zibale mit Eyer Egg and Onion Salad 17 Badrijani Nigvzit Eggplant Rolls with Walnut and Herb Filling 20 Kuku Sabzi Herb Frittata 21 Ijeh b’Lahmeh Herb and Meat Latkes 22 Gefilte Fish 24 Crispy Fish Cakes with Pine Nuts and Fresh Herbs 27 Homemade Pickled Herring 28 Seliodka pod Shuboy Layered Beet and Herring Salad 30 Forschmak Herring-Apple Pâté 31 Messayir Pickled Salad 32 Chershi Lemony Pumpkin Spread 33 Apio Celeriac and Carrots in Lemon Sauce 34
COZY SOUPS FOR CHILLY NIGHTS Krupnik Mushroom and Barley Soup 39 Israeli Chicken Soup 40 Kneidlach Matzo Balls 41 Passover Green Chicken Soup 43 Gondi Nohodi Chickpea and Chicken Dumplings in Turmeric-Lime Broth 44 Gondalach 46 Lentil Stew with Cumin, Garlic, and Coriander 47 Borscht Beet, Cabbage, and Beef Soup 48 Batata Hamood Tart Potato and Celery Broth with Meatballs 50 H’rira Spiced Vegetables and Legume Soup 51 Ras el Hanout Spice Mix 51 Meat Kubbe with a Cheat 52 Beet Soup with Kubbe 55 Pumpkin Soup with Kubbe 57
MEATBALLS, FISH BALLS, AND STUFFED VEGETABLES Albondigas Beef and Grilled Eggplant Meatballs 60 Kebab Gerez Meatballs with Sour Cherries 63 Fesenjan Meatballs in Walnut and Pomegranate Sauce 65 Herbed Fish Balls with Jerusalem Artichokes, Tomatoes, and Saffron 67 Peppers Stuffed with Rice and Meat 69 Meatballs with Tomatoes, Chickpeas, Swiss Chard, and Eggplants 70 Stuffed Cabbage Rolls with Sauerkraut 71 Mixed Stuffed Vegetables in Pomegranate Sauce 72 Mafroum Meat and Potato “Sandwiches” 75 Bistil Potato Patties Stuffed with Spiced Minced Meat 76
BRAISES, POT ROASTS, AND RAGÙS Beef and Potato Sofrito 81 Barbecued Brisket 82 Goulash Beef Stewed in Paprika Sauce 83 Plau B’jeej Chicken with Almonds and Raisins over Red Rice 85 Ushpalau Beef and Rice Pilaf with Chickpeas, Carrots, and Spices 87 Chicken Tagine with Artichoke Hearts 89 Tanziye Beef Tagine with Dried Fruits and Nuts 90 Salona Sweet-and-Sour Fish Casserole with Eggplant and Tomatoes 92 Ingriyi Sweet-and-Sour Beef and Eggplant Casserole 94 Beef Tongue in a Sweet-and-Sour Sauce 95 North African Fish Stew, Two Ways Moroccan Spicy Fish Ragù 97 Chreime Tunisian Spicy Fish Ragù 98 Ghormeh Sabzi Beef and Herb Stew 99
MEATLESS MAINS Shakshuka Eggs Poached in Spicy Tomato Sauce 103 Filfel Chuma 104 Türlü Mixed Vegetables Casserole 105 Spinach Flan 106 Feta-Stuffed Pepper “Cutlets” 108 Sabzi Polo Rice Pilaf with Lots and Lots of Fresh Herbs 110 Couscous with Vegetables (or Tuesday Couscous) 114 Tahdig Rice Pilaf with Dried Apricots and Crispy Potato Crust 117 Mujaddara Rice with Lentils 119 “Before Shabbat” Pasta Casserole 120 Green Masala Beans 121 Green Masala 121
SAVORY PASTRIES Ka’ak Savory Sesame Cookies 124 Adjaruli Khachapuri Cheese and Egg-Filled Pies 126 Sambousek Chickpea-Filled Pastry Pockets 129 Káposztás Pogácsa Caramelized Cabbage Buns 131 Lakhoukh Panfried Flat Bread 133 Frojalda Cheese Bread 134 Bouikos con Kashkaval Mini Cheese Buns 135 Sfikha Open-Face Meat Bourekas 137 Chukor Phyllo Spinach and Cheese Pastries 139 Banitza Phyllo and Cheese Pie 140 Puff Pastry Cheese Bourekas 143
SHABBAT STATE OF MIND Exiles Cholent 146 T’bit Stuffed Chicken and Rice Hamin with Honey and Spices 149 T’bit 2 150 Homemade Baharat 150 Vegan Pearl Barley and Silan Hamin 151 Hamin Macaroni Chicken Noodle Hamin 153 Jerusalem Sweet and Spicy Noodle Kugel 154 Sabich Egg and Eggplant Shabbat Breakfast Sandwich 158 Kubaneh Yemenite Slow-Baked Shabbat Bread 161 Zhug 162
CAKES, COOKIES, AND DESSERTS Fluden with Walnuts, Poppy Seeds, and Apples 167 Vera’s Apfel Kuchen Apple Cake 169 Honig Lekach Honey-Flavored Sponge Cake 170 Sweet Cheese Pie 173 Bonnie’s Jam and Pecan Rugelach 174 Chocolate-Cinnamon Babka 179 Chocolate Rugelach 180 Baba bi Tamr Date-Filled Biscuits 181 Ma’amoul Walnut-Stuffed Cookies 182 Marochinos Flourless Double Almond Cookies 185 Szilvás Gombóc Plum Dumplings 186 Apple and Raisin Strudel 188 Ghraybeh Orange Blossom Butter Cookies 191 Sutlach (Arroz con Leche) Sweet Rice Pudding 192 Basbousa Juicy Semolina, Coconut, and Pistachio Cake 195 Dried Fruit, Pears, and Wine Compote 196 Ashureh Wheat Berries with Honey, Nuts, and Dried Fruits 197 Mofleta Sweet Pancake Stacks 199 Nut and Date Coins 201 Bimuelos Honeyed Hanukkah Puffs 202
Mail Order Sources for Specialty Ingredients 203 Acknowledgments 205 Index 207
STARTERS, SALADS, AND NOSHES Spicy Carrot Salad 2 Pickled Lemons 2 Beet Salad with Cumin and Cinnamon 4 Orange and Black Olives Salad 7 Harissa 7 Blue Ones with Red Ones Eggplant Salad with Tomatoes and Onions 8 Matboukha Pepper and Tomato Slow-Cooked Salsa 9 Mashawia Fresh Tomatoes and Roasted Peppers Salsa 11 Gehakte Leber Chopped Liver with Lots and Lots of Fried Onions 12 Schmaltz and Gribenes 14 Erez’s Chopped Liver 15 Zibale mit Eyer Egg and Onion Salad 17 Badrijani Nigvzit Eggplant Rolls with Walnut and Herb Filling 20 Kuku Sabzi Herb Frittata 21 Ijeh b’Lahmeh Herb and Meat Latkes 22 Gefilte Fish 24 Crispy Fish Cakes with Pine Nuts and Fresh Herbs 27 Homemade Pickled Herring 28 Seliodka pod Shuboy Layered Beet and Herring Salad 30 Forschmak Herring-Apple Pâté 31 Messayir Pickled Salad 32 Chershi Lemony Pumpkin Spread 33 Apio Celeriac and Carrots in Lemon Sauce 34
COZY SOUPS FOR CHILLY NIGHTS Krupnik Mushroom and Barley Soup 39 Israeli Chicken Soup 40 Kneidlach Matzo Balls 41 Passover Green Chicken Soup 43 Gondi Nohodi Chickpea and Chicken Dumplings in Turmeric-Lime Broth 44 Gondalach 46 Lentil Stew with Cumin, Garlic, and Coriander 47 Borscht Beet, Cabbage, and Beef Soup 48 Batata Hamood Tart Potato and Celery Broth with Meatballs 50 H’rira Spiced Vegetables and Legume Soup 51 Ras el Hanout Spice Mix 51 Meat Kubbe with a Cheat 52 Beet Soup with Kubbe 55 Pumpkin Soup with Kubbe 57
MEATBALLS, FISH BALLS, AND STUFFED VEGETABLES Albondigas Beef and Grilled Eggplant Meatballs 60 Kebab Gerez Meatballs with Sour Cherries 63 Fesenjan Meatballs in Walnut and Pomegranate Sauce 65 Herbed Fish Balls with Jerusalem Artichokes, Tomatoes, and Saffron 67 Peppers Stuffed with Rice and Meat 69 Meatballs with Tomatoes, Chickpeas, Swiss Chard, and Eggplants 70 Stuffed Cabbage Rolls with Sauerkraut 71 Mixed Stuffed Vegetables in Pomegranate Sauce 72 Mafroum Meat and Potato “Sandwiches” 75 Bistil Potato Patties Stuffed with Spiced Minced Meat 76
BRAISES, POT ROASTS, AND RAGÙS Beef and Potato Sofrito 81 Barbecued Brisket 82 Goulash Beef Stewed in Paprika Sauce 83 Plau B’jeej Chicken with Almonds and Raisins over Red Rice 85 Ushpalau Beef and Rice Pilaf with Chickpeas, Carrots, and Spices 87 Chicken Tagine with Artichoke Hearts 89 Tanziye Beef Tagine with Dried Fruits and Nuts 90 Salona Sweet-and-Sour Fish Casserole with Eggplant and Tomatoes 92 Ingriyi Sweet-and-Sour Beef and Eggplant Casserole 94 Beef Tongue in a Sweet-and-Sour Sauce 95 North African Fish Stew, Two Ways Moroccan Spicy Fish Ragù 97 Chreime Tunisian Spicy Fish Ragù 98 Ghormeh Sabzi Beef and Herb Stew 99
MEATLESS MAINS Shakshuka Eggs Poached in Spicy Tomato Sauce 103 Filfel Chuma 104 Türlü Mixed Vegetables Casserole 105 Spinach Flan 106 Feta-Stuffed Pepper “Cutlets” 108 Sabzi Polo Rice Pilaf with Lots and Lots of Fresh Herbs 110 Couscous with Vegetables (or Tuesday Couscous) 114 Tahdig Rice Pilaf with Dried Apricots and Crispy Potato Crust 117 Mujaddara Rice with Lentils 119 “Before Shabbat” Pasta Casserole 120 Green Masala Beans 121 Green Masala 121
SAVORY PASTRIES Ka’ak Savory Sesame Cookies 124 Adjaruli Khachapuri Cheese and Egg-Filled Pies 126 Sambousek Chickpea-Filled Pastry Pockets 129 Káposztás Pogácsa Caramelized Cabbage Buns 131 Lakhoukh Panfried Flat Bread 133 Frojalda Cheese Bread 134 Bouikos con Kashkaval Mini Cheese Buns 135 Sfikha Open-Face Meat Bourekas 137 Chukor Phyllo Spinach and Cheese Pastries 139 Banitza Phyllo and Cheese Pie 140 Puff Pastry Cheese Bourekas 143
SHABBAT STATE OF MIND Exiles Cholent 146 T’bit Stuffed Chicken and Rice Hamin with Honey and Spices 149 T’bit 2 150 Homemade Baharat 150 Vegan Pearl Barley and Silan Hamin 151 Hamin Macaroni Chicken Noodle Hamin 153 Jerusalem Sweet and Spicy Noodle Kugel 154 Sabich Egg and Eggplant Shabbat Breakfast Sandwich 158 Kubaneh Yemenite Slow-Baked Shabbat Bread 161 Zhug 162
CAKES, COOKIES, AND DESSERTS Fluden with Walnuts, Poppy Seeds, and Apples 167 Vera’s Apfel Kuchen Apple Cake 169 Honig Lekach Honey-Flavored Sponge Cake 170 Sweet Cheese Pie 173 Bonnie’s Jam and Pecan Rugelach 174 Chocolate-Cinnamon Babka 179 Chocolate Rugelach 180 Baba bi Tamr Date-Filled Biscuits 181 Ma’amoul Walnut-Stuffed Cookies 182 Marochinos Flourless Double Almond Cookies 185 Szilvás Gombóc Plum Dumplings 186 Apple and Raisin Strudel 188 Ghraybeh Orange Blossom Butter Cookies 191 Sutlach (Arroz con Leche) Sweet Rice Pudding 192 Basbousa Juicy Semolina, Coconut, and Pistachio Cake 195 Dried Fruit, Pears, and Wine Compote 196 Ashureh Wheat Berries with Honey, Nuts, and Dried Fruits 197 Mofleta Sweet Pancake Stacks 199 Nut and Date Coins 201 Bimuelos Honeyed Hanukkah Puffs 202
Mail Order Sources for Specialty Ingredients 203 Acknowledgments 205 Index 207
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