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A cookbook and wine guide celebrating the regional traditions and exciting innovations of modern Italian cooking, from San Francisco's SPQR restaurant. The Roman Empire was famous for its network of roads. By following the path of these thoroughfares, Shelley Lindgren, wine director and co-owner of the acclaimed San Francisco restaurants A16 and SPQR, and executive chef of SPQR, Matthew Accarrino, explore Central and Northern Italy's local cuisines and artisanal wines. Throughout each of the eight featured regions, Accarrino offers not only a modern version of Italian cooking, but also his own…mehr
A cookbook and wine guide celebrating the regional traditions and exciting innovations of modern Italian cooking, from San Francisco's SPQR restaurant. The Roman Empire was famous for its network of roads. By following the path of these thoroughfares, Shelley Lindgren, wine director and co-owner of the acclaimed San Francisco restaurants A16 and SPQR, and executive chef of SPQR, Matthew Accarrino, explore Central and Northern Italy's local cuisines and artisanal wines. Throughout each of the eight featured regions, Accarrino offers not only a modern version of Italian cooking, but also his own take on these constantly evolving regional specialties. Recipes like Fried Rabbit Livers with Pickled Vegetables and Spicy Mayonnaise and Fontina and Mushroom Tortelli with Black Truffle Fonduta are elevated and thoughtful, reflecting Accarrino's extensive knowledge of traditional Italian food, but also his focus on precision and technique. In addition to recipes, Accarrino elucidates basic kitchen skills like small animal butchery and pasta making, as well as newer techniques like sous vide-all of which are prodigiously illustrated with step-by-step photos. Shelley Lindgren's uniquely informed essays on the wines and winemakers of each region reveal the most interesting Italian wines, highlighting overlooked and little-known grapes and producers-and explaining how each reflects the region's unique history, cultural influences, climate, and terrain. Lindgren, one of the foremost authorities on Italian wine, shares her deep and unparalleled knowledge of Italian wine and winemakers through producer profiles, wine recommendations, and personal observations, making this a necessary addition to any wine-lover's library. Brimming with both discovery and tradition, SPQR delivers the best of modern Italian food rooted in the regions, flavors, and history of Italy.
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SHELLEY LINDGREN is the wine director and co-owner of both A16 and SPQR. She has received two James Beard Foundation nominations for wine service and was named Best New Sommelier by Wine & Spirits. MATTHEW ACCARRINO is the executive chef of SPQR. He was the chef de cuisine at Craft LA, and has worked with Charlie Palmer, Todd English, Rick Moonen, Thomas Keller, and Tom Colicchio. He has been featured in Saveur, Food Arts, and the San Francisco Chronicle. KATE LEAHY is a freelance writer and the co-author of A16 Food + Wine (with Shelley Lindgren and Nate Appleman) and The Preservation Kitchen (with Paul Virant).
Inhaltsangabe
Introduction Ancient Information Highways La Strada del Vino La Strada della Cucina
Roman Roads Via Appia—Lazio Via Salaria—Le Marche Via Flaminia—Umbria Via Postumia—Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia Via Claudia Augusta—Trentino–Alto Adige Via Aemilia—Emilia-Romagna and Lombardia Via Francigena—Piemonte and Valle d’Aosta Via Aurelia—Liguria and Toscana
Resources Kitchen Road Map: Fundamental Techniques Basic Recipes, and Ingredients
Acknowledgments Index
Recipes
Via Appia—Lazio
Spiced Ricotta Fritters with Smoked Maple Syrup Fried Rabbit Livers with Pickled Vegetables and Spicy Mayonnaise Crispy Pig Ears with Pickled Green Tomatoes, Jalapeño, and Radish Spring Vegetable Vignarola Salad Bucatini with Nettles, Pancetta, and Black Pepper Whole Wheat Fettuccine with Funghi Trifolati and Spring Garlic Braised Oxtail in Cabbage Leaves with Cranberry Beans Goat Cheese and Ricotta Crespelle with Orange-Caramel Sauce Spring Lamb Lamb Ragù with Semolina Gnocchi and Pecorino Pepato Lamb Belly Lamb Loin and Rack with Gaeta Olive Sauce Leg of Lamb Wrapped in Lamb Mousse and Swiss Chard Steamed Artichokes Pickled Swiss Chard Stems
Via Salaria—Le Marche
Fluke Crudo, Sausage-Stuffed Olives, and Citrus Fried Surf Clams with Agrodolce and Onion, Fennel, and Cherry Pepper Salad Baked Anchovies Passatelli en Brodo Lasagna Vincisgrassi Rabbit a la Villa Bucci Dried Fruit and Nut Biscotti with Sweet Wine Granita
Via Flaminia—Umbria Smoked Trout with Warm Potato Salad and Horseradish Gelatina Chopped Chicken Livers with Wine Gelatina, Carrot Marmellata, and Grilled Bread Fava Bean Agnolotti with Mashed Black Truffle Tagliatelle d’Oro with Chicken Livers, Mushrooms, and Black Truffle Linguine al Cocoa with Venison Ragù Farro-Stuffed Quail with Chestnuts, Persimmons, and Dandelion Greens Pistachio Torta with Meyer Lemon Curd, Pistachio Crema, and Brown Butter Suckling Pig Crocchette with Pickled Green Rhubarb and Apricots Legs and Belly with Thyme, Lemon, and Fennel Pollen Chops with Prosciutto Sauce Blécs with Suckling Pig Ragù and Rapini Pickled Rhubarb and Dried Apricots Prosciutto Sauce
Via Postumia—Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia
Spaghetti with Shrimp and Tomato Passatina Sardines in Saor with Peperonata Jam Asparagus with Lardo-Wrapped Rye Dumplings, Goat Cheese, and Sprouting Greens Squid Ink Linguine with Braised Squid, Sea Urchin, Broccoli Crema, and Pan Grattato Farro Pasta with Speck, Green Onions, and Poppy Seeds Duck Ravioli with Sour Cherries and Candied Pecans Chocolate Torta with Vanilla Mascarpone Via Claudia Augusta—Trentino–Alto Adige
Chilled Asparagus Soup with Meyer Lemon Yogurt and Fish Roe Mustard Spaetzle with Chanterelle Mushrooms and Stridoli Rye Gnocchi with Savoy Cabbage, Potatoes, and Crispy Speck Mushroom Risotto Beer-Braised Pork Cheeks with Escarole Venison Loin with Parsnips and Huckleberry Vinaigrette Ricotta Bavarese with Verjus-Poached Rhubarb, Orange Confitura, and Powdered Olive Oil
Via Aemilia—Emilia-Romagna and Lombardia
Fritto Misto Chestnut-Filled Pasta with Broccoli di Cicco, Guanciale, and Burnt-Orange Sauce Squash Cappellacci with Medjool Dates, Rosemary Brown Butter, and Saba Ricotta and Quail Egg Ravioli with Wild Greens and Fontina Veal and Mortadella Tortellini en Consommé Bolognese with Egg Noodles Erbazzone Torta with Braised Greens, Prosciutto Cotto, and Eggs Pork Milanese, Pickled Cabbage Salad, Anchovy, and Lemon Brown Butter Buckwheat Polenta Taragna, Rabbit Stufato, Cherry Tomato, and Mimolette Fried Quince Pies with Truffle Honey and Aged Balsamic
Via Francigena—Piemonte and Valle d’Aosta
Egg “in the Hole” with Mushrooms and Miner’s Lettuce Bone Marrow Sformato with Stuffed Baby Artichokes Fontina and Mushroom Tortelli with Black Truffle Fonduta Risotto with Crayfish and Sweetbreads Savoy Cabbage with Mushrooms, Lardo, and Crispy Prosciutto Chestnut-Stuffed Veal Breast with Orzotto Baked Polenta with Beef Cheek Ragù, Eggs, and Fontina Barolo Beef with Carrots and New Potatoes Chocolate Soufflés with Milk Chocolate Gelato
Via Aurelia—Liguria and Toscana
Baked Ricotta with Cherry Tomatoes, Saba, and Pignoli Granola Scallop Crudo with Sunchokes, Hibiscus Agrodolce, Almonds, and Cherries Albacore Tuna Confitura with Panzanella Salad and Anchovies Beet and Ricotta Pansotti with Walnuts and Ricotta Salata Tomato-Braised Abalone with Farinata Smoked Linguine with Clams, Cherry Tomatoes, and Basil Pesto Ramp Spaghetti with Crab and Sea Urchin Butter Saffron Trofie with Veal Ragù Passion Fruit Panna Cotta with Coconut Spuma
Introduction Ancient Information Highways La Strada del Vino La Strada della Cucina
Roman Roads Via Appia—Lazio Via Salaria—Le Marche Via Flaminia—Umbria Via Postumia—Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia Via Claudia Augusta—Trentino–Alto Adige Via Aemilia—Emilia-Romagna and Lombardia Via Francigena—Piemonte and Valle d’Aosta Via Aurelia—Liguria and Toscana
Resources Kitchen Road Map: Fundamental Techniques Basic Recipes, and Ingredients
Acknowledgments Index
Recipes
Via Appia—Lazio
Spiced Ricotta Fritters with Smoked Maple Syrup Fried Rabbit Livers with Pickled Vegetables and Spicy Mayonnaise Crispy Pig Ears with Pickled Green Tomatoes, Jalapeño, and Radish Spring Vegetable Vignarola Salad Bucatini with Nettles, Pancetta, and Black Pepper Whole Wheat Fettuccine with Funghi Trifolati and Spring Garlic Braised Oxtail in Cabbage Leaves with Cranberry Beans Goat Cheese and Ricotta Crespelle with Orange-Caramel Sauce Spring Lamb Lamb Ragù with Semolina Gnocchi and Pecorino Pepato Lamb Belly Lamb Loin and Rack with Gaeta Olive Sauce Leg of Lamb Wrapped in Lamb Mousse and Swiss Chard Steamed Artichokes Pickled Swiss Chard Stems
Via Salaria—Le Marche
Fluke Crudo, Sausage-Stuffed Olives, and Citrus Fried Surf Clams with Agrodolce and Onion, Fennel, and Cherry Pepper Salad Baked Anchovies Passatelli en Brodo Lasagna Vincisgrassi Rabbit a la Villa Bucci Dried Fruit and Nut Biscotti with Sweet Wine Granita
Via Flaminia—Umbria Smoked Trout with Warm Potato Salad and Horseradish Gelatina Chopped Chicken Livers with Wine Gelatina, Carrot Marmellata, and Grilled Bread Fava Bean Agnolotti with Mashed Black Truffle Tagliatelle d’Oro with Chicken Livers, Mushrooms, and Black Truffle Linguine al Cocoa with Venison Ragù Farro-Stuffed Quail with Chestnuts, Persimmons, and Dandelion Greens Pistachio Torta with Meyer Lemon Curd, Pistachio Crema, and Brown Butter Suckling Pig Crocchette with Pickled Green Rhubarb and Apricots Legs and Belly with Thyme, Lemon, and Fennel Pollen Chops with Prosciutto Sauce Blécs with Suckling Pig Ragù and Rapini Pickled Rhubarb and Dried Apricots Prosciutto Sauce
Via Postumia—Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia
Spaghetti with Shrimp and Tomato Passatina Sardines in Saor with Peperonata Jam Asparagus with Lardo-Wrapped Rye Dumplings, Goat Cheese, and Sprouting Greens Squid Ink Linguine with Braised Squid, Sea Urchin, Broccoli Crema, and Pan Grattato Farro Pasta with Speck, Green Onions, and Poppy Seeds Duck Ravioli with Sour Cherries and Candied Pecans Chocolate Torta with Vanilla Mascarpone Via Claudia Augusta—Trentino–Alto Adige
Chilled Asparagus Soup with Meyer Lemon Yogurt and Fish Roe Mustard Spaetzle with Chanterelle Mushrooms and Stridoli Rye Gnocchi with Savoy Cabbage, Potatoes, and Crispy Speck Mushroom Risotto Beer-Braised Pork Cheeks with Escarole Venison Loin with Parsnips and Huckleberry Vinaigrette Ricotta Bavarese with Verjus-Poached Rhubarb, Orange Confitura, and Powdered Olive Oil
Via Aemilia—Emilia-Romagna and Lombardia
Fritto Misto Chestnut-Filled Pasta with Broccoli di Cicco, Guanciale, and Burnt-Orange Sauce Squash Cappellacci with Medjool Dates, Rosemary Brown Butter, and Saba Ricotta and Quail Egg Ravioli with Wild Greens and Fontina Veal and Mortadella Tortellini en Consommé Bolognese with Egg Noodles Erbazzone Torta with Braised Greens, Prosciutto Cotto, and Eggs Pork Milanese, Pickled Cabbage Salad, Anchovy, and Lemon Brown Butter Buckwheat Polenta Taragna, Rabbit Stufato, Cherry Tomato, and Mimolette Fried Quince Pies with Truffle Honey and Aged Balsamic
Via Francigena—Piemonte and Valle d’Aosta
Egg “in the Hole” with Mushrooms and Miner’s Lettuce Bone Marrow Sformato with Stuffed Baby Artichokes Fontina and Mushroom Tortelli with Black Truffle Fonduta Risotto with Crayfish and Sweetbreads Savoy Cabbage with Mushrooms, Lardo, and Crispy Prosciutto Chestnut-Stuffed Veal Breast with Orzotto Baked Polenta with Beef Cheek Ragù, Eggs, and Fontina Barolo Beef with Carrots and New Potatoes Chocolate Soufflés with Milk Chocolate Gelato
Via Aurelia—Liguria and Toscana
Baked Ricotta with Cherry Tomatoes, Saba, and Pignoli Granola Scallop Crudo with Sunchokes, Hibiscus Agrodolce, Almonds, and Cherries Albacore Tuna Confitura with Panzanella Salad and Anchovies Beet and Ricotta Pansotti with Walnuts and Ricotta Salata Tomato-Braised Abalone with Farinata Smoked Linguine with Clams, Cherry Tomatoes, and Basil Pesto Ramp Spaghetti with Crab and Sea Urchin Butter Saffron Trofie with Veal Ragù Passion Fruit Panna Cotta with Coconut Spuma
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