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Activity in the arena of surface chemistry and adhesion aspects in cosmetics is substantial, but the information is scattered in many diverse publications media and no book exists which discusses surface chemistry and adhesion in cosmetics in unified manner. This book containing 15 chapters written by eminent researchers from academia and industry is divided into three parts: Part 1: General Topics; Part 2: Surface Chemistry Aspects; and Part 3: Wetting and Adhesion Aspects. The topics covered include: Lip biophysical properties and characterization; use of advanced silicone materials in…mehr
Activity in the arena of surface chemistry and adhesion aspects in cosmetics is substantial, but the information is scattered in many diverse publications media and no book exists which discusses surface chemistry and adhesion in cosmetics in unified manner. This book containing 15 chapters written by eminent researchers from academia and industry is divided into three parts: Part 1: General Topics; Part 2: Surface Chemistry Aspects; and Part 3: Wetting and Adhesion Aspects. The topics covered include: Lip biophysical properties and characterization; use of advanced silicone materials in long-lasting cosmetics; non-aqueous dispersions of acrylate copolymers in lipsticks; cosmetic oils in Lipstick structure; chemical structure of the hair surface, surface forces and interactions; AFM for hair surface characterization; application of AFM in characterizing hair, skin and cosmetic deposition; SIMS as a surface analysis method for hair, skin and cosmetics; surface tensiometry approach to characterize cosmetic products; spreading of hairsprays on hair; color transfer from long-wear face foundation products; interaction of polyelectrolytes and surfactants on hair surfaces; cosmetic adhesion to facial skin; and adhesion aspects in semi-permanent mascara; lipstick adhesion measurement.
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Autorenporträt
Kashmiri Lal Mittal was employed by the IBM Corporation from 1972 through 1993. Currently, he is teaching and consulting worldwide in the broad areas of adhesion as well as surface cleaning. He has received numerous awards and honors including the title of doctor honoris causa from Maria Curie-Sk¿odowska University, Lublin, Poland. He is the editor of more than 130 books dealing with adhesion measurement, adhesion of polymeric coatings, polymer surfaces, adhesive joints, adhesion promoters, thin films, polyimides, surface modification surface cleaning, and surfactants. Dr. Mittal is also the Founding Editor of the journal Reviews of Adhesion and Adhesives. Hy Si Bui obtained his BS degrees in Physics, Mathematics and Polymer Science at the University of Southern Mississippi, MS in Colloids, Polymers & Surfaces, and PhD in Chemistry at Carnegie Mellon University. He was a Coating chemist at Bayer Corporation (Covestro) and was a recipient of the Presidential Green Chemistry Challenge Award in 2000 for Two-Component Waterborne Polyurethane Coatings. He has been at L'OREAL USA for 16 years and is currently a Sr. Principal Scientist and Sr. L'OREAL Expert in Cosmetic Application Domain. He has contributed to the launch of more than 45 cosmetic products to the market and obtained 108 granted US patents and 70 pre-granted patents.
Inhaltsangabe
Preface xxi
Part 1: General Topics 1
1 Lip Biophysical Properties and Characterization Methods for Long-Wear Lipsticks 3 Rebecca Barresi and I-Chien Liao
1.1 Introduction 4
1.2 Overview of Lip Anatomy & Lip Surface Properties 8
1.3 In Vitro Evaluation Methods for Lipsticks 17
1.4 Relation of In Vitro Analysis with Consumer Sensory Testing 25
1.5 Summary 28
2 Effect of Cosmetic Oils on Lipstick Structure and Its Deposit 35 Momoko Suzumeji Shimizu, Yuta Nomura and Hy Si Bui
2.1 Introduction 35
2.2 Types of Natural Waxes, Their Physical Properties and Potential Applications 38
2.3 Factors Affecting Oil-Wax Structures 41
2.4 Study on Model Oil-Wax System Containing Polyethylene Wax 47
2.5 Results and Discussion 50
2.6 Summary 67
3 UV Curing of Nail Gels by Light Emitting Diode (LED) and Fluorescent (FL) Light Sources 73 Michael J. Dvorchak and Melanie L. Clouser
3.1 Introduction 73
3.2 UV Cure Chemistry 74
3.3 UV Cure Light Sources: Gallium-Doped Low-Wattage Long Wavelength Fluorescent (FL) Bulbs and Light Emitting Diodes (LEDs) 76
3.4 UV Cure Oxygen Inhibition Issues 80
3.5 Special Considerations for the Use of UV Nail Gel Technology Due to Oxygen Inhibition 81
3.6 How to Formulate a UV-A Cure Nail Gel 85
3.7 Formulation of UV Nail Gels with 100% Solids UV Cure Oligomers and Monomers 89
3.8 Human Nail Mechanical and Surface Free Energy Properties 92
3.9 Adhesion of UV Nail Gel to the Human Nail Plate 97
3.10 Removal of the UV Nail Gel From the Human Nail Plate 99
3.11 Alternative Uses of UV Cured Nail Gels as a Solution to Remedy Onychomycosis (Toenail Fungus) 99
3.12 UV Cured Nail Gel Safety 103
3.13 Prospects on UV Nail Gels 104
3.14 Summary 105
4 Rheological Properties Influence Tackiness, Application and Performance of Nail Polish/Lacquer Formulations 109 Leidy Nallely Jimenez, Carina D. V. Martínez Narváez, Chenxian Xu, Samantha Bacchi and Vivek Sharma
4.1 Introduction 110
4.2 Typical Ingredients of a Nail Polish Formulation 113
4.3 Rheological Response of Nail Polishes: Background 116
4.4 Methods for Characterizing Flow Behavior and Applicationto Nail Polishes 120
4.5 Materials: Ingredients of the Twelve Nail Polishes 122
4.6 Results and Discussion 123
4.7 Summary and Conclusions 141
5 Use of Advanced Silicone Materials in Long-Lasting Cosmetics 151 Amar B. Pawar and Benjamin Falk
5.1 Introduction 151
5.2 Adhesion to Skin 152
5.3 Formulation Strategies for Long-Lasting Cosmetics 157
5.4 Advanced Silicone Materials for Long-Wear Cosmetics 160
5.5 Summary and Prospective Film-Formers for Long-Wear
Part 2: Surface Science Aspects 183
6 Advances in the Chemical Structure of the Hair Surface, Surface Forces and Interactions 185 Gustavo S. Luengo and Andrew J. Greaves
6.1 Introduction 185
6.2 Structure of Hair and the Outermost Surface 187
6.3 Chemical and Physical Modifications of the Hair Surface 187
6.4 Local Physico-Chemical Understanding of the Hair Surface 197
6.5 Macroscopic Understanding of the Chemical Nature of the Hair Surface 203
6.6 Impact of the Hair Chemical Nature on Sensorial and Consumer Benefits 207
6.7 Prospects 208
6.8 Summary 208
7 AFM for Hair Surface Characterisation 215 Steven Breakspear, Bernd Noecker and Crisan Popescu
1 Lip Biophysical Properties and Characterization Methods for Long-Wear Lipsticks 3 Rebecca Barresi and I-Chien Liao
1.1 Introduction 4
1.2 Overview of Lip Anatomy & Lip Surface Properties 8
1.3 In Vitro Evaluation Methods for Lipsticks 17
1.4 Relation of In Vitro Analysis with Consumer Sensory Testing 25
1.5 Summary 28
2 Effect of Cosmetic Oils on Lipstick Structure and Its Deposit 35 Momoko Suzumeji Shimizu, Yuta Nomura and Hy Si Bui
2.1 Introduction 35
2.2 Types of Natural Waxes, Their Physical Properties and Potential Applications 38
2.3 Factors Affecting Oil-Wax Structures 41
2.4 Study on Model Oil-Wax System Containing Polyethylene Wax 47
2.5 Results and Discussion 50
2.6 Summary 67
3 UV Curing of Nail Gels by Light Emitting Diode (LED) and Fluorescent (FL) Light Sources 73 Michael J. Dvorchak and Melanie L. Clouser
3.1 Introduction 73
3.2 UV Cure Chemistry 74
3.3 UV Cure Light Sources: Gallium-Doped Low-Wattage Long Wavelength Fluorescent (FL) Bulbs and Light Emitting Diodes (LEDs) 76
3.4 UV Cure Oxygen Inhibition Issues 80
3.5 Special Considerations for the Use of UV Nail Gel Technology Due to Oxygen Inhibition 81
3.6 How to Formulate a UV-A Cure Nail Gel 85
3.7 Formulation of UV Nail Gels with 100% Solids UV Cure Oligomers and Monomers 89
3.8 Human Nail Mechanical and Surface Free Energy Properties 92
3.9 Adhesion of UV Nail Gel to the Human Nail Plate 97
3.10 Removal of the UV Nail Gel From the Human Nail Plate 99
3.11 Alternative Uses of UV Cured Nail Gels as a Solution to Remedy Onychomycosis (Toenail Fungus) 99
3.12 UV Cured Nail Gel Safety 103
3.13 Prospects on UV Nail Gels 104
3.14 Summary 105
4 Rheological Properties Influence Tackiness, Application and Performance of Nail Polish/Lacquer Formulations 109 Leidy Nallely Jimenez, Carina D. V. Martínez Narváez, Chenxian Xu, Samantha Bacchi and Vivek Sharma
4.1 Introduction 110
4.2 Typical Ingredients of a Nail Polish Formulation 113
4.3 Rheological Response of Nail Polishes: Background 116
4.4 Methods for Characterizing Flow Behavior and Applicationto Nail Polishes 120
4.5 Materials: Ingredients of the Twelve Nail Polishes 122
4.6 Results and Discussion 123
4.7 Summary and Conclusions 141
5 Use of Advanced Silicone Materials in Long-Lasting Cosmetics 151 Amar B. Pawar and Benjamin Falk
5.1 Introduction 151
5.2 Adhesion to Skin 152
5.3 Formulation Strategies for Long-Lasting Cosmetics 157
5.4 Advanced Silicone Materials for Long-Wear Cosmetics 160
5.5 Summary and Prospective Film-Formers for Long-Wear
Part 2: Surface Science Aspects 183
6 Advances in the Chemical Structure of the Hair Surface, Surface Forces and Interactions 185 Gustavo S. Luengo and Andrew J. Greaves
6.1 Introduction 185
6.2 Structure of Hair and the Outermost Surface 187
6.3 Chemical and Physical Modifications of the Hair Surface 187
6.4 Local Physico-Chemical Understanding of the Hair Surface 197
6.5 Macroscopic Understanding of the Chemical Nature of the Hair Surface 203
6.6 Impact of the Hair Chemical Nature on Sensorial and Consumer Benefits 207
6.7 Prospects 208
6.8 Summary 208
7 AFM for Hair Surface Characterisation 215 Steven Breakspear, Bernd Noecker and Crisan Popescu
7.1 Hair Structure 215
7.2 Elements of AFM 217
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