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Modern perfumery is a blend of art, science and technology, with chemistry being the central science involved. The Chemistry of Fragrances aims to educate and entertain, and inform the audience of the very latest chemistry, techniques and tools applied to fragrance creativity. Beginning with the history of perfumes, which goes back over fifty thousand years, the book goes on to discuss the structure of the Perfume Industry today. The focus then turns to an imaginary brief to create a perfume, and the response to it, including that of the chemist and the creative perfumer. Consumer research,…mehr
Modern perfumery is a blend of art, science and technology, with chemistry being the central science involved. The Chemistry of Fragrances aims to educate and entertain, and inform the audience of the very latest chemistry, techniques and tools applied to fragrance creativity. Beginning with the history of perfumes, which goes back over fifty thousand years, the book goes on to discuss the structure of the Perfume Industry today. The focus then turns to an imaginary brief to create a perfume, and the response to it, including that of the chemist and the creative perfumer. Consumer research, toxicological concerns, and the use of the electronic nose are some of the topics discussed on this journey of discovery. Written by respected experts in their fields, this unique book gives an insider view of ""mixing molecules"" from behind the portals of modern-day alchemy. It will be enjoyed by chemists and marketeers at all levels.
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Autorenporträt
Charles Sell is a Visiting Scientist at Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Boston and has 30 years' research experience in fragrance with Quest International.
Inhaltsangabe
Acknowledgement Glossary Chapter 1: The Human Relationship with Fragrance Chapter 2: The History of Aroma Chemistry and Perfume 2.1: Early Use of Fragrance 2.2: The Age of Chivalry 2.3: The Age of Alchemy 2.4: The Age of Discovery 2.5: The Age of Revolution 2.6: The Age of Empire (Nineteenth Century) 2.7: The Age of Fashion (Twentieth Century) Chapter 3: Perfumery Materials of Natural Origin 3.1: Perfumes and Odours in Nature 3.2: Extraction of Natural Perfume Ingredients 3.3: Adulteration of Natural Perfume Ingredients 3.4: From Natural to Synthetic References Chapter 4: Ingredients for the Modern Perfumery Industry 4.1: Economic Factors Affecting Perfume Ingredient Production 4.2: Perfume Ingredients Derived from Terpenoids 4.3: Musks 4.4: Perfume Ingredients Derived from Benzene 4.5: Perfume Ingredients Derived from Toluene 4.6: Perfume Ingredients Derived from Phenol 4.7: Pefrume Ingredients Derived from Naphthalene 4.8: Perfume Ingredients Derived from Aliphatic Materials 4.9: Perfume Ingredients Derived from Cyclopentanone 4.10: Perfume Ingredients Derived from Dicyclopentadiene 4.11: Conclusions References Chapter 5: The Structure of an International Fragrance Company 5.1: The Business-Getting Chain 5.2: The Supply Chain References Chapter 6: The Perfume Brief 6.1: Brief for Eve - Prepared by Business Scents Ltd 6.2: Toxicology Chapter 7: Perfumer Creation: The Role of the Perfumer 7.1: Soap 7.2: Shampoo 7.3: Shower and Bath Gel 7.4: Antiperspirant Reference Chapter 8: Measurement of Fragrance Perception 8.1: Introduction 8.2: Market Research 8.3: Sensory Analysis 8.4: Multisensory Approach 8.5: Psychology of Perfume 8.6: The Business Scents Brief 8.7: Analysis of Ingredients to Convey the Appropriate Odour Characteristics 8.8: Creating Fragrances for the Future References Chapter 9: The Application of Fragrance 9.1: The Role of the Applications Department 9.2: Product Formulations 9.3: Stability Testing References Chapter 10: The Safety and Toxicology of Fragrances 10.1: Introduction 10.2: Self Regulation 10.3: Safety Assessment 10.4: Skin Irritation 10.5: Skin Sensitisation 10.6: Photoeffects 10.7: Neurotoxicity 10.8: Reproductive Effects 10.9: Natural Ingredients 10.10: Conclusions References Chapter 11: Volatility and Substantivity 11.1: Perfume Creation and Physical Chemistry 11.2: Perfume Ingredient Volatility 11.3: Perfume Polarity 11.4: Substantivity and Retention 11.5: Conclusions References Chapter 12: Natural Product Analysis in the Fragrance Industry 12.1: Introduction 12.2: Natural Product Analysis 12.3: Analytical Techniques used in the Fragrance Industry 12.4: Positive Identification 12.5: Headspace Collection 12.6: The Future References Chapter 13: Chemoreception 13.1: Why have a Sense of Smell? 13.2: Measuring Smell 13.3: Cell Wall Structure 13.4: Proteins Involved in Signal Generation 13.5: Anatomy of Smell 13.6: Signal Generation 13.7: The Combinatorial Nature of Odour Perception 13.8: Signal Processing 13.9: Implications for Odorant Design References Chapter 14: The Search for New Ingredients 14.1: Introduction 14.2: The Need 14.3: The Search 14.4: Computer-Aided Design Approach 14.5: Summary Acknowledgements References Chapter 15: Buying Fragrance Ingredients and Selling Fragrance Compounds 15.1: Buying 15.2: Sales and Marketing Chapter 16: The Finale: Brief Submission Appendix I: Some of the more Important Natural Fragrance Materials Appendix II: Useful Addresses Bibliography Subject Index
Acknowledgement Glossary Chapter 1: The Human Relationship with Fragrance Chapter 2: The History of Aroma Chemistry and Perfume 2.1: Early Use of Fragrance 2.2: The Age of Chivalry 2.3: The Age of Alchemy 2.4: The Age of Discovery 2.5: The Age of Revolution 2.6: The Age of Empire (Nineteenth Century) 2.7: The Age of Fashion (Twentieth Century) Chapter 3: Perfumery Materials of Natural Origin 3.1: Perfumes and Odours in Nature 3.2: Extraction of Natural Perfume Ingredients 3.3: Adulteration of Natural Perfume Ingredients 3.4: From Natural to Synthetic References Chapter 4: Ingredients for the Modern Perfumery Industry 4.1: Economic Factors Affecting Perfume Ingredient Production 4.2: Perfume Ingredients Derived from Terpenoids 4.3: Musks 4.4: Perfume Ingredients Derived from Benzene 4.5: Perfume Ingredients Derived from Toluene 4.6: Perfume Ingredients Derived from Phenol 4.7: Pefrume Ingredients Derived from Naphthalene 4.8: Perfume Ingredients Derived from Aliphatic Materials 4.9: Perfume Ingredients Derived from Cyclopentanone 4.10: Perfume Ingredients Derived from Dicyclopentadiene 4.11: Conclusions References Chapter 5: The Structure of an International Fragrance Company 5.1: The Business-Getting Chain 5.2: The Supply Chain References Chapter 6: The Perfume Brief 6.1: Brief for Eve - Prepared by Business Scents Ltd 6.2: Toxicology Chapter 7: Perfumer Creation: The Role of the Perfumer 7.1: Soap 7.2: Shampoo 7.3: Shower and Bath Gel 7.4: Antiperspirant Reference Chapter 8: Measurement of Fragrance Perception 8.1: Introduction 8.2: Market Research 8.3: Sensory Analysis 8.4: Multisensory Approach 8.5: Psychology of Perfume 8.6: The Business Scents Brief 8.7: Analysis of Ingredients to Convey the Appropriate Odour Characteristics 8.8: Creating Fragrances for the Future References Chapter 9: The Application of Fragrance 9.1: The Role of the Applications Department 9.2: Product Formulations 9.3: Stability Testing References Chapter 10: The Safety and Toxicology of Fragrances 10.1: Introduction 10.2: Self Regulation 10.3: Safety Assessment 10.4: Skin Irritation 10.5: Skin Sensitisation 10.6: Photoeffects 10.7: Neurotoxicity 10.8: Reproductive Effects 10.9: Natural Ingredients 10.10: Conclusions References Chapter 11: Volatility and Substantivity 11.1: Perfume Creation and Physical Chemistry 11.2: Perfume Ingredient Volatility 11.3: Perfume Polarity 11.4: Substantivity and Retention 11.5: Conclusions References Chapter 12: Natural Product Analysis in the Fragrance Industry 12.1: Introduction 12.2: Natural Product Analysis 12.3: Analytical Techniques used in the Fragrance Industry 12.4: Positive Identification 12.5: Headspace Collection 12.6: The Future References Chapter 13: Chemoreception 13.1: Why have a Sense of Smell? 13.2: Measuring Smell 13.3: Cell Wall Structure 13.4: Proteins Involved in Signal Generation 13.5: Anatomy of Smell 13.6: Signal Generation 13.7: The Combinatorial Nature of Odour Perception 13.8: Signal Processing 13.9: Implications for Odorant Design References Chapter 14: The Search for New Ingredients 14.1: Introduction 14.2: The Need 14.3: The Search 14.4: Computer-Aided Design Approach 14.5: Summary Acknowledgements References Chapter 15: Buying Fragrance Ingredients and Selling Fragrance Compounds 15.1: Buying 15.2: Sales and Marketing Chapter 16: The Finale: Brief Submission Appendix I: Some of the more Important Natural Fragrance Materials Appendix II: Useful Addresses Bibliography Subject Index
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