No visitor to this Basque city is likely to miss the stunning Guggenheim museum and nor should they, but our guide digs deeper: uncovering wonderful food, traditional shops and diverse cultural attractions. Alongside stunning modern architecture - Gehry's Guggenheim, a metro system with stations designed by Norman Foster, Phillipe Starck's reinvention of a wine warehouse into cultural space - there are dozens of tiny bars vying to serve the most elegant and delicious pintxos, extraordinary views and lively markets.