LORI ZABAR was an art, decorative arts, and architectural historian; a historic preservationist; and an attorney. She was for many years a researcher in the American Wing and the Modern and Contemporary Art department of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, as well as an independent curator and consultant. She passed away in February 2022.
Foreword by Julia Moskin ix
Map of the Volynia, Podolia, and Kiev provinces of the Russian Empire,
Around 1900 xiii
Introduction xv
1. Ostropolia 3
Lilly Zabar’s Meat Borscht and Flanken Soup 13
2. In Transit and Acclimating to America 17
Lilly Zabar’s Chicken Soup with Matzoh Balls (Knaidlach) 31
3. The Beginning of Zabar’s 35
Cheese Blintzes with Blueberry Sauce 51
4. The War Years 55
Lilly Zabar’s Latkes (Potato Pancakes) 67
5. After the War 69
Lilly Zabar’s Sweet Noodle Kugel 81
6. Life After Louis 83
Zabar’s Nova Cream Cheese Spread 99
7. The 1960s Culinary Revolution and Zabar’s Evolution 101
Eli Zabar’s Thumbprint Cookies 121
8. The Epicurean Emporium Expands, 1970–84 123
Lilly Zabar’s Stuffed Cabbage 151
9. Trouble in Gourmet Paradise, 1985–95 153
Lilly Zabar’s Chopped Liver 169
10. Zabar’s Present Tense 171
Lilly Zabar’s Gefilte Fish 183
Epilogue: The Future of Zabar’s 187
Zabar’s Key Players: The Staff 193
Acknowledgments 199
Index 203
